what i did was go into my factory FZ6R manual and looked under the air intake temperature sensor values. 32 degrees F the OHMs should be about 5.5k-6.6k and around 175 degrees the OHMs shound be around .223k-.235k ohms. what the sensor does is messure the intake air temp with a OHM resistor and it varries the signal with temp change. when an ECU gets signal from the air temp sensor saying it has got cold dense air coming in, the ECU sends a signal to the fuel injectors telling them to stay open longer because the cold fuel in going to compress the fuel making the molucule smaller so more fuel is needed to burn, also ignition is advance to help burn the cold fuel air mix. when the sensor reads hot air the ECU tells the injectors to add less fuel because the hot air needs less fuel to burn and the ignition is retarted. By unpluging the air intake temp sensor and sticking in a 5.6k OHM resistor from radio shack your ECU will always be told it is receiving cold dense air and in return you will be reciving more fuel and advanced ignition. i did this yesterday, lift up the tank unplug the sensor stick the 5.6k ohm resistor in the harness and tape it up with electrical tape. as soon as i started the engine i could smell the bike running rich and snappy throttle response, drove it to and from work and noticed a difference, not a 20 hp gain but noticeable. i would only recommend this as test to try i would not run the resistor full time maybe when you go to the track or ride the corners. all the PCV and juice boxes are is mainly resitors and capaciters, they alter the impulses from the ECU and using the 5.6k or even 4.7 ohm is a small alternative.
Y
yellowfz
Ha, the old Ford Ranger trick, I wondered how long it would take someone to try this.
Years ago there use to be a lot of this on Ebay, power adders and all they were were resistors that tricked the ECU into thinking it was getting cold air.
Snake oil -- it works, but not a real tuning procedure. My $.02
Years ago there use to be a lot of this on Ebay, power adders and all they were were resistors that tricked the ECU into thinking it was getting cold air.
Snake oil -- it works, but not a real tuning procedure. My $.02
I was gonna say the same thing about ebay. Some people even put them in nice little boxes and made them plug n play. My buddy bought one, snapped open the box, and saw a 5 cent resistor.
The PCV and Juicebox do the same thing but adjust to air temp, it's not one temp all the time. It's a nice experiment in how things work, but I wouldn't ride around like that.
Pcv also can map each gear which can't be done using a resistor only and pcv can be set based on throttle position (accel pump setting).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4 Beta
On my new cage I can feel a huge drop in hp as the engine warm up. So I did a test run the other day. I disconnected the a ater temp sensor for a run... that was great! But the AC stopped working... figure someone thought about it. Lol
On the 6R, the maping change pass 200F and go a little fat to cool things down.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
On the 6R, the maping change pass 200F and go a little fat to cool things down.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
Y
yellowfz
I hate it when they dump fuel to try and cool the engine.
That is the way old tuners uses to think, dump lots of fuel and increase timing, doesn't always make the most/best power.
Some MAF (mass air flow sensor) have IAT (intake air temperature sensor) and MAF all in one and if you remove the MAF for speed density you have to add back the IAT sensor, if not runs like carp and uses fuel big time.
Thats how I did it on my old Suzuki Aerio. That was quite a good tune over 80 MPH with the force cold air intake. But it's kind of built different on the new Fiesta. From reading online the car run close loop under 80% throttle. So you can get a piggyback controller that cheat the sensors to tune pass 80% throttle. With 120 HP the only time your not WOT is at idle or cruising speed anyway! LOLI hate it when they dump fuel to try and cool the engine.
That is the way old tuners uses to think, dump lots of fuel and increase timing, doesn't always make the most/best power.
Some MAF (mass air flow sensor) have IAT (intake air temperature sensor) and MAF all in one and if you remove the MAF for speed density you have to add back the IAT sensor, if not runs like carp and uses fuel big time.