I just installed the Shogun No-Cut Frame Sliders... It's a pretty straight forward and easy mod, but "I" on the other hand FAILED and had to mess it up somehow. The installation instructions that come with the frame sliders have the basic information, but to me, it would have really helped if there were visuals. So I'm doing a write up for those like me who prefer a little more description...
Identify location to install the frame sliders. You will be replacing the current engine bolt with the bolts given to you with the kit you receive. Location is the same on both sides. You will have to remove the side fairings to get to this location. (5 screws on each side) Pictures below are for the left side...
There are 2 different size frame sliders. The long one goes on the left side. The short goes on the right. You can install either the left or right in any order but DO NOT DO BOTH at the same time! Make sure the bolt thread and length are correct. Shown to the left side of the picture is the stock bolt.
Remove the stock bolt, once you release the initial torque, it should come right out. Install the correct frame slider in place of the bolt. Finger tighten, use a little lube if needed. It should go in pretty easily. Don't torque the bolts down yet.
Place the side fairings back into place and tighten the bolts to where the frame sliders and fairings best fit. Torque the engine bolts down to factory spec, 40 ft lbs. Next, tighten the bolt in the frame slider to recommended spec 30-32 ft lbs. (Optional: Use one drop of blue thread locker) Put fairing back on.
Repeat on the other side... and you are done!
When in doubt or you get stuck, stop to think it out or ask questions! Here's where I failed... Left side went in smooth as butter. The right side, I finger tightened half way and then started to use an allen wrench. And for some reason, the bolt started binding just enough for small shavings to come off the bolt. The bolt got stuck with less than 1/8" of travel left, I could not remove it or move it all the way in, and I eventually stripped the hex head. Luckily the bolt was in far enough so I could drive to the local bike shop, and they were able to use special tools to get it out, replace/re-install the bolt with no damage done. The Outcome... internal threads were fine, the bolt that I received had been slightly defective where the threads were off by a few mils, enough to strip a tiny layer which in this case was enough to get a bolt stuck. Simple stupid mistake where I could have stopped and replaced the bolt for a few bucks instead cost $100, panic, stress, & a 6 pack...
:banghead:
Identify location to install the frame sliders. You will be replacing the current engine bolt with the bolts given to you with the kit you receive. Location is the same on both sides. You will have to remove the side fairings to get to this location. (5 screws on each side) Pictures below are for the left side...
There are 2 different size frame sliders. The long one goes on the left side. The short goes on the right. You can install either the left or right in any order but DO NOT DO BOTH at the same time! Make sure the bolt thread and length are correct. Shown to the left side of the picture is the stock bolt.
Remove the stock bolt, once you release the initial torque, it should come right out. Install the correct frame slider in place of the bolt. Finger tighten, use a little lube if needed. It should go in pretty easily. Don't torque the bolts down yet.
Place the side fairings back into place and tighten the bolts to where the frame sliders and fairings best fit. Torque the engine bolts down to factory spec, 40 ft lbs. Next, tighten the bolt in the frame slider to recommended spec 30-32 ft lbs. (Optional: Use one drop of blue thread locker) Put fairing back on.
Repeat on the other side... and you are done!
When in doubt or you get stuck, stop to think it out or ask questions! Here's where I failed... Left side went in smooth as butter. The right side, I finger tightened half way and then started to use an allen wrench. And for some reason, the bolt started binding just enough for small shavings to come off the bolt. The bolt got stuck with less than 1/8" of travel left, I could not remove it or move it all the way in, and I eventually stripped the hex head. Luckily the bolt was in far enough so I could drive to the local bike shop, and they were able to use special tools to get it out, replace/re-install the bolt with no damage done. The Outcome... internal threads were fine, the bolt that I received had been slightly defective where the threads were off by a few mils, enough to strip a tiny layer which in this case was enough to get a bolt stuck. Simple stupid mistake where I could have stopped and replaced the bolt for a few bucks instead cost $100, panic, stress, & a 6 pack...
:banghead: