Air in brake system

[Richie21]

Hey everybody, how's it going? Well I went to the local bike shop where I live, they sell and maintain yamaha, Honda, and Suzuki. Anyways I was buying some stuff to do a brake fluid and engine coolant flush and replace since I've had my bike for two years now. The guy sees I have brake fluid, ask me what I'm doing and what bike I have and then tells me there's no way I can do it myself. He says I need a special machine to make sure I don't get any air in the system, which they happen to have. So I'm just wondering if any of you wise and knowledgeable gentlemen think he's just trying to get some easy money out of me. Sorry for the long post and thanks in advance

 

[mike]

You will need two people to bleed the brakes. You will need to pump them up and have some one crack the bleeder screw while holding pressure on the pedal/handle and let the air purge out, this will need to be done several times to ensure all the air is gone and it's straight fluid coming out when bleeder is cracked. Its best to hook a small hose onto the bleeder screw so you don't spray brake fluid all over your bike. You can top fluid off as you bleed the brakes to make sure there is no air being introduced back into the system. If your not sure about the process your best bet is to take it to a shop and have it done it's not worth the risk.

 

[Richie21]

Thanks mike. I've bled my breaks before but only on cars. Never done it on a bike. I have someone to help. I'm just trying to see if what that guy told me makes sense or if you guys have heard about this.

 

[98Deathmage]

Thanks mike. I've bled my breaks before but only on cars. Never done it on a bike. I have someone to help. I'm just trying to see if what that guy told me makes sense or if you guys have heard about this.

They guy that told you need a special machine is trying to sell you the service. There is a special machine that makes the process easier and a one man job but doesnt do it better or perfectly.

Google how to bleed brakes and make sure you put a tube on the bleeder so you can direct the fluid out into a bottle and contain the mess. Also dont pump the brake lever farther than you normally would press it or you can tear the seals in the master cylinder and can have total brake failure. And tightening the bleeder screw barely takes any tightening. Its a hallow tube and its in soft metal so its really really easy to strip.

And remember start furthest to closest!

 

[SixRFixR]

If you have two hands, you can do it yourself.

 

[Brent27]

Here's a good article and video on how to do it:
Video and tips: How to bleed your motorcycle brakes - Common Tread - RevZilla

 

[BlastOffMike]

If you have two hands, you can do it yourself.

Agreed, I successfully did it myself. A little easier with help but not necessary.

 

[dart1963]

yeah, I have long arms... have no issues doing it myself

 

[Marthy]

BS ALERT!

You don't need anything other than not running out of oil while you bleed in the reservoir. Having the bleeder kit makes things a bit easier but absolutely not necessary. I have one because I need to bleed car brakes on my own, kind of hook it up to the compressor. There's a "penispump" version available at Cycle Gear too. LOL

 

[Final Impact]

Not rocket science... One man/woman job.

FSM is black and white simple. Follow it.
Build pressure, release pressure (open bleeder), seal bleeder, release lever, repeat. Refill res before port sucks air.

Biggest suggestion; use a syringe to suck out all of the old fluid first.
Tip: while holding pressure; tap the caliper upwards from the bottom with a soft wood block to free air bubbles to go to the top and exit at the bleeder. Crack the bleeder and seal it before the lever bottoms. Easy one person process on a bike.

Last thing: pressure bleeding is always better than vacuum bleeding. Pressure forces molecules to combine, vacuum pulls them apart. Pressure will make a firm peddle.

 

[SixRFixR]

Last thing: pressure bleeding is always better than vacuum bleeding. Pressure forces molecules to combine, vacuum pulls them apart. Pressure will make a firm peddle.

To get the firmest lever possible, as a last step I tie the lever back with firm pressure and leave it for hours or overnight. The pressure turns large bubbles into smaller bubbles and they migrate up better. Taping on the lines loosens bubbles stuck to the walls of the brake lines. Think of bubbles in a straw in a glass of 7-Up. How would you get rid of them?