FZ6R Spark Plug replacement
- Thread starter Roaddawg
- Start date
If someone else gets to it before me, then by all means... if not, I'll see about putting this into a pdf when I get to work. We might also want to make a copy in the new wiki
No problem man. That's why this forum is great...helping each other out. I can't believe its been over two years since I posted this thread!!
If someone else gets to it before me, then by all means... if not, I'll see about putting this into a pdf when I get to work. We might also want to make a copy in the new wiki
so, forgot about this... I did make one... but, it was too big for this site... I'll have to find another place to host it.
Any of you ever tried those? E3.38 is the NGK CR9EIX equivalent. I'm just curious about it.
E3 Spark Plugs
E3 Spark Plugs
Y
yellowfz
Hey Martin,
I helped a older gentlemen change to those in his car (Buick), he thought they would make it run better, he said after a few weeks of driving they made it worse and asked me to remove them and go back to standard plugs. Only experience I have had with them, and not a favorable one.
I helped a older gentlemen change to those in his car (Buick), he thought they would make it run better, he said after a few weeks of driving they made it worse and asked me to remove them and go back to standard plugs. Only experience I have had with them, and not a favorable one.
Y
yellowfz
Yeah I just did the NGK too. I set them to the lower scale of gap (28). The IX aren't bad (iridium).
Ok, so I am beginning to prep to do my spark plugs as I will hit 8k miles in a few days. From what I have read, sounds like I could really go to 10 or 12K miles, however, I have the YES plan so I should follow the maint. schedule as per manual so they cant refuse future services if something happens.
With that in mind.... Should I go for the Iridium Plugs for some of the benefits or stick with the Nickel plugs instead since will have to replace every 8k?
If you recommend the Irridium still, wouldnt this be what we need? It is the CR9EIX - but the "My Garage" function says it will not fit my bike.. A 4 pack for this $24, compared to what it is at local stores or online it is almost like buy 3 get 1 free price wise...
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/NGK-Iridium-Spark-Plugs-CR9EIX/dp/B0032YPMVS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344106862&sr=8-2&keywords=CR9EIX]Amazon.com: 4 New NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs CR9EIX # 3521: Automotive[/ame]
With that in mind.... Should I go for the Iridium Plugs for some of the benefits or stick with the Nickel plugs instead since will have to replace every 8k?
If you recommend the Irridium still, wouldnt this be what we need? It is the CR9EIX - but the "My Garage" function says it will not fit my bike.. A 4 pack for this $24, compared to what it is at local stores or online it is almost like buy 3 get 1 free price wise...
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/NGK-Iridium-Spark-Plugs-CR9EIX/dp/B0032YPMVS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344106862&sr=8-2&keywords=CR9EIX]Amazon.com: 4 New NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs CR9EIX # 3521: Automotive[/ame]
Completed my change of spark plugs last night.. Took about 3 hours total. Next time I think I could get it down to 2, maybe less depending on a few things.
The rubber cover - I have this figured out. This was the part that took the longest to get at and start replacement of the plugs. Next time I think it will be allot easier because I know what to do. Plus the clamps on the air hoses at the base of the rubber cover were turned in such a way that I could not get the pliers on them. I could barely barely barely even get my fingers on them because they were turned sideways towards the outside of the bike. Took a bit to try to move them straight up so I could use the pliers. Put them back on straight up for easier loosening next time.
Finishing the job the other big headache was putting the airbox back on correctly. I had only loosed the 2 outer clamps on the valve connections. I saw the other "internal two" but looked and with leaving the gas tank on and just braced up, did not look like I would be able to gain access to retighten them. Also I figured I got it off with just loosening the outer two, thought I could get back on also. But it would not seat all the way down, only part way on all three. In the end I pushed down one side and tightened it up nice and TIGHT. Then went to the other side and pushed/wiggled and got that side down. Looked and now all 4 were finally down all the way. So I TIGHTENED that other one also.
Anyone have any input on how to make the reseating of the airbox easier for next time???
The rubber cover - I have this figured out. This was the part that took the longest to get at and start replacement of the plugs. Next time I think it will be allot easier because I know what to do. Plus the clamps on the air hoses at the base of the rubber cover were turned in such a way that I could not get the pliers on them. I could barely barely barely even get my fingers on them because they were turned sideways towards the outside of the bike. Took a bit to try to move them straight up so I could use the pliers. Put them back on straight up for easier loosening next time.
Finishing the job the other big headache was putting the airbox back on correctly. I had only loosed the 2 outer clamps on the valve connections. I saw the other "internal two" but looked and with leaving the gas tank on and just braced up, did not look like I would be able to gain access to retighten them. Also I figured I got it off with just loosening the outer two, thought I could get back on also. But it would not seat all the way down, only part way on all three. In the end I pushed down one side and tightened it up nice and TIGHT. Then went to the other side and pushed/wiggled and got that side down. Looked and now all 4 were finally down all the way. So I TIGHTENED that other one also.
Anyone have any input on how to make the reseating of the airbox easier for next time???
chewmieser
New Member
Just did this, took about 2.5 hours. The biggest pain was putting all the hose clamps back on, my fingers are pretty numb after that (pliers work somewhat, but I had to use my fingers quite a bit). And, yeah, the rubber cover took a bit to get back in place as well.
Thanks for the write-up!
Thanks for the write-up!
get some long head needle nose pliers. you can grab the hose clamps and turn them up, then compress and move them out of the way a lot easier.
I did not loosen the four clamps underneath, did not tighten them down either... they sit on there just fine, seal up just fine. I did run a rag around them to get rid of built up dust, then relubed them with a bit of grease.
I tried "re-using" the "reusable" ties... found it much easier to just cut them and put on new ones...
I did not loosen the four clamps underneath, did not tighten them down either... they sit on there just fine, seal up just fine. I did run a rag around them to get rid of built up dust, then relubed them with a bit of grease.
I tried "re-using" the "reusable" ties... found it much easier to just cut them and put on new ones...
I'm due for my spark plug change... This is the perfect thread to help, thanks for posting it OP!
Anyone know what the torque spec are for the plugs? Also, what's the gap range?
A screenshot of the service manual would be much appreciate.
service maual quote
"
Manufacturer/model
Manufacturer/model
NGK/CR9E
Spark plug gap
0.7–0.8 mm (0.028–0.031 in)"My manual does not show a torque value for those. i never look it up those are fairly easy to tell when (its like tehy have a top at the end of the thread)
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I'm due for my spark plug change... This is the perfect thread to help, thanks for posting it OP!
Anyone know what the torque spec are for the plugs? Also, what's the gap range?
A screenshot of the service manual would be much appreciate.
Everything I have ever read for spark plugs is that you just turn until they are nice and Finger tight. You never want to make them super tight.
When I did mine I just kept turning the included (tool kit) spark plug wrench until it stopped and with light pressure would not turn anymore.
Okay thanks. I've done plugs on cars before and they actually have a torque spec, although it's barely anything, something like 7 ft/lbs.
