Hey guys and gals as some of you may know I just recently did the FZ6 cam mod. I wanted to put together a little thread that chronicled the major steps I had to take along with a few little mods I did during the process. This isn't a true DIY which is why I am putting it in the mods section. If the mods feel it should be there, then so be it. I have documented the steps I took, but didn't take pictures along the way (I can attach some that Martin aka Marthy took for his valve adjustment thread which I used as a basis for teardown). This has to be one of the very best power mods out there for the FZ6R. I won't know the true gains until I get a good tune in the spring, but my butt dyno says 80hp at the wheel sounds about right. I also cut out the airbox and did the short velocity stack mod while I had her apart. She screams now and pulls like a champ from around 4-5k. So without further ado here are my steps to greatness. LOL! Most of the steps in the first step are outlined in a number of other threads so I am not going into any great detail. These are the basics you need to be able to do to get to the cams. If any of these sounds too complicated, please do not proceed. Take your bike to a mechanic or a buddy that has a little more know how. Take pictures and notes and bag and mark all bolts, parts you remove so you know what they go to. I ended up with 12 or so bags of bolts and parts. I marked them all with sharpie so I knew where they went. Will save you time and a headache. I did take pics with my phone of timing marks to be sure I was exact.
1. Take seats off (rear with key and front with allen wrench (5mm), take inner fairing pieces off (one 4mm and one push rivet, one set each side). Side fairings and lower cowl, gas tank (two allen head screws (4 or 5mm) and the pivot screw (5mm), remove plugs and quick disconnect underneath. I left overflow/vent hoses attached to the tank) and then remove the airbox. This is accomplished by removing all hoses that are held on by clamps (simply squeeze with a pair of channel locks to be able to move clamp and or wiggle hose off) and removing the plug harness on the lower left corner, one screw at the top/front of airbox (5mm I believe) and loosening the allen bolts holding the airbox onto the throttle bodies. A few turns is all you need (do not remove the bolts and I believe these are also 4mm). Now airbox should be able to be wiggled off.
Another side note: Cover the intake once throttle body is removed to keep any debris from falling in there. Also take care not to drop anything into valves/cams/cylinders while working in there.
Now for the real steps (thanks to Marthy)...
Step1:
Once you get to the point that you can actually see the valve cover, throttle body... Now we're getting started. In order to be able to remove the valve cover you need to move the throttle body assembly out of the way. Basically you need to disconnect the throttle cable (2 Phillips screws on left side of the bike), loosening up the 4 collars on each intake runner (3mm) <Do not remove these bolts>.
More detail
To have access to the throttle plate, you need to remove the big black plate on the left side (4 bolts - 12mm socket). Once that's out of the way, remove the 2 Phillips screws to remove the cable holder from the throttle assembly, then disconnect the cables. Use a (very) long extension with a 3mm Allen socket and loosing up all 4 screws on the collars (I have a T handle allen key set that the allen key removes from the handle. I used this in conjunction with a 1/4" socket, because it fit in there nice and taped them together and used my longest extension which is 6 or 8"). You can do it with just an extension, but it would have to be very long. When that's done, just pull up on the throttle assembly. You won't be able to pull it all out since the coolant hose is still attached (just need to move it somewhat, no need to remove). This step perplexed me because the damn 3mm screws are a pain to get to, but be patient. I came up with my impromptu ratchet rig to loosen. A super long (preferably 1/4" drive) extension with a 3mm allen bit socket will work fine (just didn't have along enough one). Problem with a 3/8" drive ratchet is it's bigger and not alot of space under there. 3/8" drive is fine for the exterior bolts.
Step2:
Remove the rubber mat that is over top of the valve cover (cut the zip ties and replace later). Disconnect the spark plug cables. Remove the 6 bolts on top of the valve cover (5mm Allen key). I thought the allen bits would work well here, but the frame make it impossible for the rear bolts. I ended up using just an allen key. You will have to remove the AIS or AIS block offs to be able to clear under the frame. I found out after trial and error. Pull up on the cover, then back a little and rotate CCW to clear the frame rail. Push the throttle assembly out of the way then the valve cover will get out easy. At this point you can see the cams and all the other goodies. You can also remove the plugs at this point, it will make it much easier to spin the crankshaft (I left mine in, but you can remove them).
Step3:
Remove the timing chain cover on the right hand side of the engine (5mm Allen key) and just put it on the side. Don't lose the dowels (mine pulled off with the cover). You can use a tie wrap to keep the cover out of the way. A good 3/8" drive ratchet with a 12mm socket will fit on the center bolt (crank trigger). Remove the gasket and line up the "T" timing mark with the mark on the case (left side of timing chain cover housing). The mark is not real easy to see so make sure you clean the gasket residue off the casing). The mark on the cams gear should line up with the edge of the head also ("E" on the exhaust cam flush with the case towards front of the bike and "I" on the intake cam flush with the case towards the rear. You will need to replace this gasket so you should order a head of time. The gears have to be aligned this way so that valves are in correct position based on timing. When you reinstall they are put in exactly the same position. Please do not crank the trigger while chain and cams are off or you will screw up your timing. Remove the chain tensioner (2 - 5mm allen screws). The tensioner is right next to timing chain cover, but is slightly hidden. Take note when reinstalled the gasket needs to be on the same way ("L" should be seen in lower left corner and arrow on tensioner points up). You also need to compress the tensioner before reinstalling. You push down on the head while you pinch the spring. This allows the plunger to go down. When you get it down you have to throw the little latch over it to hold it down. It will reopen when charged with oil to put tension back to normal (it's an auto tensioner).
Step4:
Now that everything is lined up and tensioner is off there should be slack in the chain (also remove dowels from crank trigger so the chain guides can move, mine came out with the cover). Now you can remove the cam shaft cap bolts. Very important - use a 1/4" drive torque wrench to torque the cap bolts back on when you're done. They need to be loosened and tightened in a crisscross pattern to avoid damage to the the cams. The torque value is 10nm. Also the caps should be placed back on in the exact same spot. DO NOT move them to another location. Lay them somewhere that won't get disturbed in the orientation you took them off. This is very very very important. Arrows point toward right of bike.
With cam caps removed and slack in the chain you should be able to remove the cams. Remove the intake first (it's the one closest to you). and then exhaust (use tie wrap to hold chain up or it will end up in the crank case). I didn't loosen the cam gear bolts while mounted, but the service manual recommends loosening and tightening them on the bike. They are tightened to 20nm so I needed to put mine in a vise (wraps in rags carefully) to remove the bolts (I didn't have spare bolts so I needed to remove the stock ones).
Step5:
Here's where you will need some technical help (Marthy or someone else if you can't do this on your own). You also should have already had the gears machined to accept the bigger FZ6 cams.You will need a degree wheel to make sure the intake is at 102 ILS and the exhaust at 105 ELS. I didn't have to do this step, because Marthy had the gears machined and he set the degree already. I can't be of much help here for anyone. If you already have them set at the proper degree and bolted together (20nm although book says to fully tighten once on, but it will be a pain and you run risk of moving the timing) which I recommend doing in a vise as I took mine off. Put the exhaust cam in first and line up the "E" with the - next to it flush with the casing. Use a tie wrap and make sure there is no slack in the chain in the front of the bike (so aligned and chain tight) and then put tie wrap through gear hole and around chain tightly. Now put the intake cam in (don't bolt either one down yet) chain on it with "I" and - mark flush with the casing. Don't need to put a tie wrap on the intake cam. You should now bolt down the intake cam. Remember that the caps have to be in the same location and arrows facing right. Tighten the bolts slowly crisscrossing. When you get them just snug (recheck marks) and torque the bolts to 10nm. Now install the exhaust cam caps the same way. Make sure none of the 3 marks has moved and the chain is on tight (front side very important as tensioner will remove some slack from backside when charged with oil). Torque those and recheck marks. If everything checks out you can remove the tie wrap holding the chain to the exhaust sprocket. Still okay with all 3 marks? Proceed...
Step6:
Reinstall tensioner (arrow up and "L" on gasket in lower left corner, be sure to have tensioner in proper position - pushed together with clip holding tension before installing or you can and will damage the tensioner). I put the dowels back in the crank trigger case holding the sliders at this point. Marks still all good? Put the valve cover bolts (not the cover, just the bolts) in the holes where they should go on the cam shaft cap mounts. Hand tight is fine for this step. Now if chain is in position and marks are good you need to hold tension on the chain and crank the trigger (12mm socket). Marthy and I used a wrench wedged between the rear chain guide in the timing chain housing to hold tension (wrap something around the wrench to keep from causing any damage). Crank the trigger (always always always clockwise) a full rotation and recheck timing marks. Still good, do it again a few more times rechecking. Hold the wrench while doing this to avoid losing tension and the chain slipping which will F up your timing. Double, triple, quadruple check chain and gear position. If good proceed to reinstall valve cover. You may have to re-silicone the gasket to hold in place. You have to ensure seal is perfect before tightening the bolts (sorry you had to remove the valve cover bolts from the previous step of testing to do this step). New gasket on the timing chain cover and bolt back on. Reinstall throttle bodies (tighten screws underneath), put spark plug wires back, put rubber cover back on over valve cover (good time for AIS block offs if you don't have them on...see another thread for how to), mod airbox and velocity stacks before reinstalling airbox. Put airbox back in with hoses clamps and plug back in, make sure it seat down in the throttle bodies (tighten) and put screw back in that holds the airbox front. Reinstall gas tank (make all connections), reconnect throttle cables and put the plate back over top. Now you can test fire (load map first) or just assume greatness and put everything back on (fairings and seats). I am attaching a link to the map Marthy made. It is based on his setup (FZ6 Cams, open airbox, short V stacks, Danmoto muffler w/out DB killer). This setup doesn't run as well with the adv gear rev b, because of the mods. Here's the link, maybe mods can move it or suggest a better location https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByvrkEJYcHM0N285NzhyTDczY3c/view?usp=sharing
I suggest using this map if you have this setup. Only difference between mine and Marthy's setup is I have a Viper Racing can and not a Danmoto, but almost every open race can will produce similar result on the 6R.
1. Take seats off (rear with key and front with allen wrench (5mm), take inner fairing pieces off (one 4mm and one push rivet, one set each side). Side fairings and lower cowl, gas tank (two allen head screws (4 or 5mm) and the pivot screw (5mm), remove plugs and quick disconnect underneath. I left overflow/vent hoses attached to the tank) and then remove the airbox. This is accomplished by removing all hoses that are held on by clamps (simply squeeze with a pair of channel locks to be able to move clamp and or wiggle hose off) and removing the plug harness on the lower left corner, one screw at the top/front of airbox (5mm I believe) and loosening the allen bolts holding the airbox onto the throttle bodies. A few turns is all you need (do not remove the bolts and I believe these are also 4mm). Now airbox should be able to be wiggled off.
Another side note: Cover the intake once throttle body is removed to keep any debris from falling in there. Also take care not to drop anything into valves/cams/cylinders while working in there.
Now for the real steps (thanks to Marthy)...
Step1:
Once you get to the point that you can actually see the valve cover, throttle body... Now we're getting started. In order to be able to remove the valve cover you need to move the throttle body assembly out of the way. Basically you need to disconnect the throttle cable (2 Phillips screws on left side of the bike), loosening up the 4 collars on each intake runner (3mm) <Do not remove these bolts>.
More detail
To have access to the throttle plate, you need to remove the big black plate on the left side (4 bolts - 12mm socket). Once that's out of the way, remove the 2 Phillips screws to remove the cable holder from the throttle assembly, then disconnect the cables. Use a (very) long extension with a 3mm Allen socket and loosing up all 4 screws on the collars (I have a T handle allen key set that the allen key removes from the handle. I used this in conjunction with a 1/4" socket, because it fit in there nice and taped them together and used my longest extension which is 6 or 8"). You can do it with just an extension, but it would have to be very long. When that's done, just pull up on the throttle assembly. You won't be able to pull it all out since the coolant hose is still attached (just need to move it somewhat, no need to remove). This step perplexed me because the damn 3mm screws are a pain to get to, but be patient. I came up with my impromptu ratchet rig to loosen. A super long (preferably 1/4" drive) extension with a 3mm allen bit socket will work fine (just didn't have along enough one). Problem with a 3/8" drive ratchet is it's bigger and not alot of space under there. 3/8" drive is fine for the exterior bolts.
Step2:
Remove the rubber mat that is over top of the valve cover (cut the zip ties and replace later). Disconnect the spark plug cables. Remove the 6 bolts on top of the valve cover (5mm Allen key). I thought the allen bits would work well here, but the frame make it impossible for the rear bolts. I ended up using just an allen key. You will have to remove the AIS or AIS block offs to be able to clear under the frame. I found out after trial and error. Pull up on the cover, then back a little and rotate CCW to clear the frame rail. Push the throttle assembly out of the way then the valve cover will get out easy. At this point you can see the cams and all the other goodies. You can also remove the plugs at this point, it will make it much easier to spin the crankshaft (I left mine in, but you can remove them).
Step3:
Remove the timing chain cover on the right hand side of the engine (5mm Allen key) and just put it on the side. Don't lose the dowels (mine pulled off with the cover). You can use a tie wrap to keep the cover out of the way. A good 3/8" drive ratchet with a 12mm socket will fit on the center bolt (crank trigger). Remove the gasket and line up the "T" timing mark with the mark on the case (left side of timing chain cover housing). The mark is not real easy to see so make sure you clean the gasket residue off the casing). The mark on the cams gear should line up with the edge of the head also ("E" on the exhaust cam flush with the case towards front of the bike and "I" on the intake cam flush with the case towards the rear. You will need to replace this gasket so you should order a head of time. The gears have to be aligned this way so that valves are in correct position based on timing. When you reinstall they are put in exactly the same position. Please do not crank the trigger while chain and cams are off or you will screw up your timing. Remove the chain tensioner (2 - 5mm allen screws). The tensioner is right next to timing chain cover, but is slightly hidden. Take note when reinstalled the gasket needs to be on the same way ("L" should be seen in lower left corner and arrow on tensioner points up). You also need to compress the tensioner before reinstalling. You push down on the head while you pinch the spring. This allows the plunger to go down. When you get it down you have to throw the little latch over it to hold it down. It will reopen when charged with oil to put tension back to normal (it's an auto tensioner).
Step4:
Now that everything is lined up and tensioner is off there should be slack in the chain (also remove dowels from crank trigger so the chain guides can move, mine came out with the cover). Now you can remove the cam shaft cap bolts. Very important - use a 1/4" drive torque wrench to torque the cap bolts back on when you're done. They need to be loosened and tightened in a crisscross pattern to avoid damage to the the cams. The torque value is 10nm. Also the caps should be placed back on in the exact same spot. DO NOT move them to another location. Lay them somewhere that won't get disturbed in the orientation you took them off. This is very very very important. Arrows point toward right of bike.
With cam caps removed and slack in the chain you should be able to remove the cams. Remove the intake first (it's the one closest to you). and then exhaust (use tie wrap to hold chain up or it will end up in the crank case). I didn't loosen the cam gear bolts while mounted, but the service manual recommends loosening and tightening them on the bike. They are tightened to 20nm so I needed to put mine in a vise (wraps in rags carefully) to remove the bolts (I didn't have spare bolts so I needed to remove the stock ones).
Step5:
Here's where you will need some technical help (Marthy or someone else if you can't do this on your own). You also should have already had the gears machined to accept the bigger FZ6 cams.You will need a degree wheel to make sure the intake is at 102 ILS and the exhaust at 105 ELS. I didn't have to do this step, because Marthy had the gears machined and he set the degree already. I can't be of much help here for anyone. If you already have them set at the proper degree and bolted together (20nm although book says to fully tighten once on, but it will be a pain and you run risk of moving the timing) which I recommend doing in a vise as I took mine off. Put the exhaust cam in first and line up the "E" with the - next to it flush with the casing. Use a tie wrap and make sure there is no slack in the chain in the front of the bike (so aligned and chain tight) and then put tie wrap through gear hole and around chain tightly. Now put the intake cam in (don't bolt either one down yet) chain on it with "I" and - mark flush with the casing. Don't need to put a tie wrap on the intake cam. You should now bolt down the intake cam. Remember that the caps have to be in the same location and arrows facing right. Tighten the bolts slowly crisscrossing. When you get them just snug (recheck marks) and torque the bolts to 10nm. Now install the exhaust cam caps the same way. Make sure none of the 3 marks has moved and the chain is on tight (front side very important as tensioner will remove some slack from backside when charged with oil). Torque those and recheck marks. If everything checks out you can remove the tie wrap holding the chain to the exhaust sprocket. Still okay with all 3 marks? Proceed...
Step6:
Reinstall tensioner (arrow up and "L" on gasket in lower left corner, be sure to have tensioner in proper position - pushed together with clip holding tension before installing or you can and will damage the tensioner). I put the dowels back in the crank trigger case holding the sliders at this point. Marks still all good? Put the valve cover bolts (not the cover, just the bolts) in the holes where they should go on the cam shaft cap mounts. Hand tight is fine for this step. Now if chain is in position and marks are good you need to hold tension on the chain and crank the trigger (12mm socket). Marthy and I used a wrench wedged between the rear chain guide in the timing chain housing to hold tension (wrap something around the wrench to keep from causing any damage). Crank the trigger (always always always clockwise) a full rotation and recheck timing marks. Still good, do it again a few more times rechecking. Hold the wrench while doing this to avoid losing tension and the chain slipping which will F up your timing. Double, triple, quadruple check chain and gear position. If good proceed to reinstall valve cover. You may have to re-silicone the gasket to hold in place. You have to ensure seal is perfect before tightening the bolts (sorry you had to remove the valve cover bolts from the previous step of testing to do this step). New gasket on the timing chain cover and bolt back on. Reinstall throttle bodies (tighten screws underneath), put spark plug wires back, put rubber cover back on over valve cover (good time for AIS block offs if you don't have them on...see another thread for how to), mod airbox and velocity stacks before reinstalling airbox. Put airbox back in with hoses clamps and plug back in, make sure it seat down in the throttle bodies (tighten) and put screw back in that holds the airbox front. Reinstall gas tank (make all connections), reconnect throttle cables and put the plate back over top. Now you can test fire (load map first) or just assume greatness and put everything back on (fairings and seats). I am attaching a link to the map Marthy made. It is based on his setup (FZ6 Cams, open airbox, short V stacks, Danmoto muffler w/out DB killer). This setup doesn't run as well with the adv gear rev b, because of the mods. Here's the link, maybe mods can move it or suggest a better location https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByvrkEJYcHM0N285NzhyTDczY3c/view?usp=sharing
I suggest using this map if you have this setup. Only difference between mine and Marthy's setup is I have a Viper Racing can and not a Danmoto, but almost every open race can will produce similar result on the 6R.
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