Maps Question For You Guys Running Maps


TN6R

Member
To you guys with with fuel controllers or power commander 3 or 5:

I picked up a PC Fuel Controller and the tech from PC.com told me I can download and run maps on my Fuel Controller. I specifically asked them if I could download and run custom maps that were created in PC5 and they said yes. But I am now "hearing" that Marthy's Advgear RevB map can't be used? Why is that?

If it in fact doesn't work, then I'll probably just stick with his Sport Rev A map. All i have done on my bike is Marthy's Exhaust using his Delkevic muffler and I installed block off plates.

* Edit * So I found out that the Fuel Controller can’t adjust ignition/timing which is why Marthys Advgear RevB map might not work with it. The Power Commanders guys seem to still think a custom map will still be transferable onto the fuel controller. They said the controller just can’t make initial ignition adjustments. This is a little confusing to me because how can it apply them if it can’t make them... we’ll see I guess.
 
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sti491

Member
To you guys with with fuel controllers or power commander 3 or 5:

I picked up a PC Fuel Controller and the tech from PC.com told me I can download and run maps on my Fuel Controller. I specifically asked them if I could download and run custom maps that were created in PC5 and they said yes. But I am now "hearing" that Marthy's Advgear RevB map can't be used? Why is that?

If it in fact doesn't work, then I'll probably just stick with his Sport Rev A map. All i have done on my bike is Marthy's Exhaust using his Delkevic muffler and I installed block off plates.

* Edit * So I found out that the Fuel Controller can’t adjust ignition/timing which is why Marthys Advgear RevB map might not work with it. The Power Commanders guys seem to still think a custom map will still be transferable onto the fuel controller. They said the controller just can’t make initial ignition adjustments. This is a little confusing to me because how can it apply them if it can’t make them... we’ll see I guess.
I just looked up your model... coincidently I also just installed a PC5 having talked at some length to Dyno Jet help desk and Martin, who created the Marthy maps.

None of these devices (for our bikes) will change timing, just fuel. Your PCFC is a simplistic version if the PC5 from what I can tell, a corresponding lower price point. You can load custom maps. But what the PCFC does not have (at least I can't find it in the FC manual on line) that the PC5 does have is the ability to add a wire from the unit to our bikes speed sensor, so the a map designed to be different in different gears can be used. Marthy's ADv Gear Rev B map is a gear specific map, you NEED to have the speed sensor hooked up. Some of his other maps do not require this. Martin made this map because it is rich and torquey in gears 1-3, then the the higher gears are just a bit leaner for better fuel economy... for me every gear pulls like a freight train!... and my MPG's range between 38-41.

Since your PCFC has the ability to hold multiple maps, you are probably limited to having a map that is all sport (like the first 3 gears I described), but for all gears, and a separate cruising map.

I would consider selling it and get a PC5, personally. With the PC5 you also can add a remote switch to change between 2 maps as you are riding just pushing a button. ... or, like you said just stick with the Sport Rev A map. It's similar to the first 3 gears on the Adv Gear Rev B, possibly even a bit stronger in upper gears. Your mileage will not be quite as good is all.

Enjoy! For what it's worth I though easily changing maps would be important to me. Once you find a map you like (I LOVE Adv Gear Rev B), I never change it. I actually disconnected my map switch from the PC and used it for my Lighted Jewel running light.
 
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TN6R

Member
Thanks for the help with this. I had a lengthily discussion with one of the PC tech's and he confirmed pretty much everything you said. I'll mainly stick with the all sport map and leave it that. I hardly do any highway riding that's over 55 mph and only run my bike during weekends and dry summer days lol. The fuel consumption doesn't bother me.

Question for you though, when it's time to connect the connectors, should I wrap them with electrical tape to keep out any dust or potential water from washing the bike? The tech suggested it and so I am curious if you do did that yourself?

Thanks again!
 

sti491

Member
Thanks for the help with this. I had a lengthily discussion with one of the PC tech's and he confirmed pretty much everything you said. I'll mainly stick with the all sport map and leave it that. I hardly do any highway riding that's over 55 mph and only run my bike during weekends and dry summer days lol. The fuel consumption doesn't bother me.

Question for you though, when it's time to connect the connectors, should I wrap them with electrical tape to keep out any dust or potential water from washing the bike? The tech suggested it and so I am curious if you do did that yourself?

Thanks again!
Not sure how yours connects. On my PC5, there are in-line connectors, that is, you undo a factory plug, and plug this in between. These were in large rubber boots on my bike under the tank and did not require any electrical tape. Where I had to tap a wire, I used Vampire type connectors that have a male and female connector. They are pretty water resistant unless they get soaked. I put Tesa Tape on those, but not sure they really needed it. Tesa is like electrical fabric hockey tape. It is forgiving to make wire looms.

Electrical tape can't hurt, unless you stretch it too tight and it compromises the wire connection..
 

TN6R

Member
Good info. My controller has the same type of connectors as the PC5 I believe. Here's a quick pic of mine. I'll have to pick up some of that Tesa Tape. Did you use the factory velcro or did you go another route on setting the actual unit in the bike?

FC.jpg
 

sti491

Member
Good info. My controller has the same type of connectors as the PC5 I believe. Here's a quick pic of mine. I'll have to pick up some of that Tesa Tape. Did you use the factory velcro or did you go another route on setting the actual unit in the bike?

View attachment 39782
Yes, you only have factory connectors. Your connections are already in a large rubber boot under the tank, behind the airbox. I did not take the tank off, I just propped it up as high as I could. It is tight under there, hard on your fingers too. (I have large hands, not proper small sized Japanese hands)... You know what they say about guys with big hands... big heart :)

I recommend you do not use any tape on those connections. Just push the boot back, plug it, and slide the boot back. It will be great that way. Just like the factory did it.

I mounted my PC under the passenger seat, which is the driest spot on the bike. I used the provided adhesive velcro. It sits on a curved part of the under-fender, so I added a little more velcro on the side. It is rock solid now, but still removable. Remember you will want to see & be able to get to the controllers lights and adjustments. I only needed to be able see the status light. I think yours actually has some adjustment screws. It got pretty crowded in there when I added the alarm.

Also, since I always have a tailbag on my bike, it's a tad of a PIA to take off my passenger seat. I talked to the Tech at DynoJet about always having the USB attached on the bike. He said it's fine. So mine is always attached. The slack is coiled next to the unit. The other end that plugs into my computer pokes out under the passenger seat between it and the grab rail. I left enough free slack on top of the tool kit so I can pull it out about a foot. I had a spare little plastic USB plug end cover that came with a different USB cord I had, that I use to keep water out, but I doubt that is really needed if you tuck it under there. Then when finished, it tucks nicely back under there firmly so you can't see it. You can see it in the pics below. I like this set up.

BTW, that is Tesa Tape I used to hold the Alarm controller upside down near the PC5. It has a lot of uses. That alarm is as solid as if I drilled and bolted it. A roll costs $4 on Amazon Prime.
 

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TN6R

Member
Yes, you only have factory connectors. Your connections are already in a large rubber boot under the tank, behind the airbox. I did not take the tank off, I just propped it up as high as I could. It is tight under there, hard on your fingers too. (I have large hands, not proper small sized Japanese hands)... You know what they say about guys with big hands... big heart :)

I recommend you do not use any tape on those connections. Just push the boot back, plug it, and slide the boot back. It will be great that way. Just like the factory did it.

I mounted my PC under the passenger seat, which is the driest spot on the bike. I used the provided adhesive velcro. It sits on a curved part of the under-fender, so I added a little more velcro on the side. It is rock solid now, but still removable. Remember you will want to see & be able to get to the controllers lights and adjustments. I only needed to be able see the status light. I think yours actually has some adjustment screws. It got pretty crowded in there when I added the alarm.

Also, since I always have a tailbag on my bike, it's a tad of a PIA to take off my passenger seat. I talked to the Tech at DynoJet about always having the USB attached on the bike. He said it's fine. So mine is always attached. The slack is coiled next to the unit. The other end that plugs into my computer pokes out under the passenger seat between it and the grab rail. I left enough free slack on top of the tool kit so I can pull it out about a foot. I had a spare little plastic USB plug end cover that came with a different USB cord I had, that I use to keep water out, but I doubt that is really needed if you tuck it under there. Then when finished, it tucks nicely back under there firmly so you can't see it. You can see it in the pics below. I like this set up.

BTW, that is Tesa Tape I used to hold the Alarm controller upside down near the PC5. It has a lot of uses. That alarm is as solid as if I drilled and bolted it. A roll costs $4 on Amazon Prime.
Nice job man, looks great! I actually installed mine today and have it in the same spot but unfortunately I placed the controller over the metal mount where you place it under and I din't realize it until I already ran the wiring and made the connections. I'll have to reset it all next time I get under the fuel tank... so for now mine is just hanging in that spot resting on a poncho bag I have in that spot as well. My wiring is all neat and clean and zip tied to the main wiring so at least that part is good.

I'm running power commander's stock exhaust/stock air map and it runs good. I did try Marthy's sport map (not the advanced gear map) but just the sport one and it made my bike smokey at start up and idle. It was like a gray smoke. Is that normal? I was wondering if it’s because I have block off plates installed if not. I wish I knew more about this stuff.

I also installed new plugs at 9.4 ft/lb torque and with proper gaps. I was a bit surprised to see that the 3rd and 4th plugs were kinda loose before I removed them.
*** I can't get my pictures any bigger than that...
 

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sti491

Member
Nice job man, looks great! I actually installed mine today and have it in the same spot but unfortunately I placed the controller over the metal mount where you place it under and I din't realize it until I already ran the wiring and made the connections. I'll have to reset it all next time I get under the fuel tank... so for now mine is just hanging in that spot resting on a poncho bag I have in that spot as well. My wiring is all neat and clean and zip tied to the main wiring so at least that part is good.

I'm running power commander's stock exhaust/stock air map and it runs good. I did try Marthy's sport map (not the advanced gear map) but just the sport one and it made my bike smokey at start up and idle. It was like a gray smoke. Is that normal? I was wondering if it’s because I have block off plates installed if not. I wish I knew more about this stuff.

I also installed new plugs at 9.4 ft/lb torque and with proper gaps. I was a bit surprised to see that the 3rd and 4th plugs were kinda loose before I removed them.
*** I can't get my pictures any bigger than that...
Good job!

Let's tackle your your questions and questions I have from reading your post.

1. Tourquing spark plugs. I am a huge supporter of using Torque wrenches where you can, nearly always. Using one as you did at factory specs is fine. What I am about to tell you is an opinion after working on cars for 40 years... and that's all it is, you know what the say, opinions are like butts, everyone has one. Here is mine:

When you use a torque wrench it's important to know it's calibrated. I have three T wrenches. 1/2 and 1/4' drives, and an ity bity one I recently got the does inch lbs really well. Works great for valve covers and our bike's engine covers. I check one wrench against the other to be sure mine are in spec. You can also have a tool truck guy or store check them. I try to think about the application. Some engine bolts, like head bolts have a stretch to them so it is critical. Some you just don't want to strip the threads, or compress a soft or hollow gasket: that's a spark plug. The result of torquing a spark plug too tight is pretty bad. You have to put a helicoil or other threaded insert in your engine head. If anything goes wrong with that long torque wrench, which is a big lever without much feel, it could happen. Probably won't.... but could.

Here is what I do. Check the gap as you did. Apply a small amount of nickel based anti sieze to the threads (silver color, not copper). Hand tighten until the the gasket meets the head. Use a shorty ratchet wrench by hand. If you don't have a shorty, choke up on a normal one so you have little leverage. The less leverage you have the better. After hand tightening, turn the wrench between a 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn tighter. When I did this method on my bike, using a shorty wretch that is shorter than my palm is long, it was hard to get it turned 1/2 turn. Perfect. It might be possible, but highly improbable you will ever strip out a spark plug thread this way. My 2 cents... somebody might flame me for this opinion. It's old school.

2. I would like to see a close up of the plug tips that you removed. If they are all the same then only need one pic. If they look like the one in my pic, then I don't even need a pic. If not, or if they are significantly darker, that would be good to know answering your question about smoke.

3. Grey smoke can mean a few things. Was it grey, white grey or blue grey? In that it changed with a map change, I'll assume it is really grey. That can mean it is running rich. Which could be the map... but I have not heard of Martin's maps causing this. These maps don't change idle mixture much I don't think. If it's rich enough to blow grey smoke, your plugs would be a darker color. Was it cool out when you started it? White, or white grey is usually water in the combustion chamber. Since an engine is a big pump that compresses air, squeezing liquid water from air, it can be completely normal. That is why water drips out an exhaust pipe. Was it whitish grey and cool out? It should go away after it warms up on your bike though. Maybe you tried this first when your bike was cold, then you went to the other map when it was warmer? Blue grey is usually oil burning and your map switch would not affect this.

I would check everything you did switching to this map, to be sure you were running the right map you thought you were. If it pushes grey smoke continually with that map don't use it. Your block off plates should have nothing to do with this. You might want to message Martin about it (aka, Marthy). He has been very helpful to me. None of his maps smoked on my bike.

4. How many miles are on your bike?

5. The DynoJet map worked great on my bike. Martin's map worked better. Some say every bike is different though....

The spark plug pic below is from my bike at 3,000 miles. I changed them because I was in there doing the block off plates, they did not need changing. They are the original plugs. An old school carburetor guy would consider that plug clean as a whistle and a bit lean. On a modern fuel injected bike like ours, it's normal; and perfect. It will be interesting when I pull them again after all my mods, and running a fairly rich map. I bet they don't look much different. Fuel injection is a wonderful thing!
 

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TN6R

Member
Great info on the torque wrench and hey man, I value opinions. Especially from guys who are more knowledgeable than me and I can see that you definitely are.

I generally perform the hand tighten and 1/4" seat method myself and am mainly a car guy, but am still learning on bikes. I had my torque wrench tested for accuracy shortly after I bought it because I just wanted peace of mind that it was accurate. I treat it like a piece of glass, lol. I sent you a PM about the spark plugs. I'm interested to know what you think on that.

I included a pic below of a close up on my plugs (they all look like that) but let me give you a quick back story about my bike. I bought it in 2016 and it was bone stock with 7K miles. The guy who I bought it from was the original owner and the bike is pristine. At around 7500 miles I put on marthy's slip on Delkevic exhaust and install block off plates. I also replaced the stock air filter with another stock Yamaha air filter so no air box mod done yet. That's about all she had done since I did the plugs yesterday and PCFC.

To my knowledge the plugs I pulled yesterday are original. They all the look the same too. My bike has never smoked before yesterday so after installing the map, it smoked a lot. Definitely gray smoke but I didn't ride it like that but rather it just idled like that. I revved it a couple times to see if it would clear out but it didn't and then it actually died when the RPMs went down to idle. At that point, I installed another map (the stock exhaust/stock air filter from pc.com) and it stopped smoking almost immediately. At that point I took it for a ride and it seemed to run very well. I'm not sure if the map I got from Marthy was the correct one for me because I only have the PC Fuel Controller and not the PCV. He sent me another map that I'll try later today and see if that one is good. It very well could be that his maps aren't compatible with my controller but the PC tech said any map made on a PCV should work on my PCFC.

Martin has been helpful certainly and I appreciate his input to this site as well. Worse case scenario for me is after I do the timing advanced mod, I'll take my bike in for a dyno tune if I can't find a suitable map. I know the one I am using now is good but it could be better I think. I wish I got a PCV and could just run the adv gear map, but I didn't and my wife and I have an understanding that my money needs to go to other things than just myself lol.

Thanks for your suggestions and I've been learning from you and hope to learn more. Quick edit: took a short video this morning with Marthy's FZ6R Sport Map - looks good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIX3MeKvVO0&feature=youtu.be

7 by mrxracer12, on Flickr
6 by mrxracer12, on Flickr
 

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sti491

Member
Zac, your bike sounds an idles exactly like my bike!

If you still have the old plugs, please take a pic of one at an angle like I sent you, so I can see more inside the tip where the ceramic is. Thanks. I think you are good man. I would like to see that plug though.

So, on these old plugs, you were running the Delkevic can with no fuel management? For how long? I'm curious, it probably doesn't matter. The color of that ceramic inside the end of the plug does matter to see though. It tells A LOT about the health of your engine and set up.

Thanks, Rob

Great info on the torque wrench and hey man, I value opinions. Especially from guys who are more knowledgeable than me and I can see that you definitely are.

I generally perform the hand tighten and 1/4" seat method myself and am mainly a car guy, but am still learning on bikes. I had my torque wrench tested for accuracy shortly after I bought it because I just wanted peace of mind that it was accurate. I treat it like a piece of glass, lol. I sent you a PM about the spark plugs. I'm interested to know what you think on that.

I included a pic below of a close up on my plugs (they all look like that) but let me give you a quick back story about my bike. I bought it in 2016 and it was bone stock with 7K miles. The guy who I bought it from was the original owner and the bike is pristine. At around 7500 miles I put on marthy's slip on Delkevic exhaust and install block off plates. I also replaced the stock air filter with another stock Yamaha air filter so no air box mod done yet. That's about all she had done since I did the plugs yesterday and PCFC.

To my knowledge the plugs I pulled yesterday are original. They all the look the same too. My bike has never smoked before yesterday so after installing the map, it smoked a lot. Definitely gray smoke but I didn't ride it like that but rather it just idled like that. I revved it a couple times to see if it would clear out but it didn't and then it actually died when the RPMs went down to idle. At that point, I installed another map (the stock exhaust/stock air filter from pc.com) and it stopped smoking almost immediately. At that point I took it for a ride and it seemed to run very well. I'm not sure if the map I got from Marthy was the correct one for me because I only have the PC Fuel Controller and not the PCV. He sent me another map that I'll try later today and see if that one is good. It very well could be that his maps aren't compatible with my controller but the PC tech said any map made on a PCV should work on my PCFC.

Martin has been helpful certainly and I appreciate his input to this site as well. Worse case scenario for me is after I do the timing advanced mod, I'll take my bike in for a dyno tune if I can't find a suitable map. I know the one I am using now is good but it could be better I think. I wish I got a PCV and could just run the adv gear map, but I didn't and my wife and I have an understanding that my money needs to go to other things than just myself lol.

Thanks for your suggestions and I've been learning from you and hope to learn more. Quick edit: took a short video this morning with Marthy's FZ6R Sport Map - looks good: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIX3MeKvVO0&feature=youtu.be

7 by mrxracer12, on Flickr
6 by mrxracer12, on Flickr
 

TN6R

Member
All four plugs look like these two so I only pictured two. The one with the whiter center was the 3rd plug in line (looking at them in the head from left to right). The 3rd one and the 4th one looked like that and then the first two plugs on the left side of the bike were more tan in color.

I ran the slip on for about 600 - 700 miles up to yesterday before installing the PCFC yesterday evening. I still have the stock header on and replaced the crush gaskets with new oem ones back when I reinstalled it after putting on the delkevic can. Thanks for the pm too Rob, gave me some peace of mind with those plugs!

2 by XRC, on Flickr
 

sti491

Member
Reading those plugs is interesting. They are fine I'm sure so don't let my comments give you concern.

1. What is all the gunk in the threads, particularly around the crush washer in the first plug you are holding? Is your bike stored outside? Per our earlier discussion, maybe the prior owner used way to much anti seize? Look at the difference between my pic and yours. Yours only have twice as much miles on them. Mine was all with the stock exhaust and no Power Commander. Yours are some miles with the Delkevic on stock map I assume, as you just got the controller?

2. The first plug looks good, as does the second, but the second one is a bit richer. From your side pics in your other post, the electrode looks worn down to a thinner point (?)... not sure if that is an optical illusion. About the only thing that does that is detonation, or pinging or knocking as its called also. That happens from timing being too advanced or poor/low octane gas. Looking at your old plugs and new plugs in person, do the electrode tip, right where the gap is look worn and pointy, compared to the flat surface of the new plug at the gap? Are these both NGK CR9E? Do you run Regular or Premium gas, any fuel additives? I find it hard to believe there is anything wrong with the stock timing on the bike, but crappy fuel can definitely do that too. When you start the bike from a stop and and accidentally "lug" it a little, almost like it's it's about to stall, do you ever hear a ping or knock?

3. Just go out and enjoy your bike. Ride the snot out of it with the map you like best. Remember to check you oil and most importantly tire pressure before every ride. Maybe in another 1,000 miles pull the plugs to see if they look any different than new, or your old plugs.

Doubt you have anything to worry about.

I suspect when I pull my plugs with all my recent mods, that they will look a tad more rich than the last plugs I remove from it when it was stock. What will be interesting if my plugs will show any affect of changing my timing to approx 10 degrees. I have not heard any ping from it... so my assumption is I filed it about right, that is, not too much.

The only thing my bike does now, it did it on first up and a few times starting since, is idle higher for a short while when its cold. It always did that as it should, but with the timing change it's maybe 60% as higher. Advancing timing does increase idle speed. In our bikes the ECU seems to take back to 1,200-1,300 where it should be. It's almost like the eco isn't sure whats happening at first with a cold start after my timing mod.Bbut in a minute it's normal. Not objectionable, but it's different, and confirms I really did change it!




All four plugs look like these two so I only pictured two. The one with the whiter center was the 3rd plug in line (looking at them in the head from left to right). The 3rd one and the 4th one looked like that and then the first two plugs on the left side of the bike were more tan in color.

I ran the slip on for about 600 - 700 miles up to yesterday before installing the PCFC yesterday evening. I still have the stock header on and replaced the crush gaskets with new oem ones back when I reinstalled it after putting on the delkevic can. Thanks for the pm too Rob, gave me some peace of mind with those plugs!

2 by XRC, on Flickr
 
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TN6R

Member
Reading those plugs is interesting. They are fine I'm sure so don't let my comments give you concern.

1. What is all the gunk in the threads, particularly around the crush washer in the first plug you are holding? Is your bike stored outside? Per our earlier discussion, maybe the prior owner used way to much anti seize? Look at the difference between my pic and yours. Yours only have twice as much miles on them. Mine was all with the stock exhaust and no Power Commander. Yours are some miles with the Delkevic on stock map I assume, as you just got the controller?

2. The first plug looks good, as does the second, but the second one is a bit richer. From your side pics in your other post, the electrode looks worn down to a thinner point (?)... not sure if that is an optical illusion. About the only thing that does that is detonation, or pinging or knocking as its called also. That happens from timing being too advanced or poor/low octane gas. Looking at your old plugs and new plugs in person, do the electrode tip, right where the gap is look worn and pointy, compared to the flat surface of the new plug at the gap? Are these both NGK CR9E? Do you run Regular or Premium gas, any fuel additives? I find it hard to believe there is anything wrong with the stock timing on the bike, but crappy fuel can definitely do that too. When you start the bike from a stop and and accidentally "lug" it a little, almost like it's it's about to stall, do you ever hear a ping or knock?

3. Just go out and enjoy your bike. Ride the snot out of it with the map you like best. Remember to check you oil and most importantly tire pressure before every ride. Maybe in another 1,000 miles pull the plugs to see if they look any different than new, or your old plugs.

Doubt you have anything to worry about.

I suspect when I pull my plugs with all my recent mods, that they will look a tad more rich than the last plugs I remove from it when it was stock. What will be interesting if my plugs will show any affect of changing my timing to approx 10 degrees. I have not heard any ping from it... so my assumption is I filed it about right, that is, not too much.

The only thing my bike does now, it did it on first up and a few times starting since, is idle higher for a short while when its cold. It always did that as it should, but with the timing change it's maybe 60% as higher. Advancing timing does increase idle speed. In our bikes the ECU seems to take back to 1,200-1,300 where it should be. It's almost like the eco isn't sure whats happening at first with a cold start after my timing mod.Bbut in a minute it's normal. Not objectionable, but it's different, and confirms I really did change it!
1. Yes I noticed the anti seize on there but didn't really think about it at the time. I'm think the original owner must've done plugs and used too much like you said. It's just like old anti seize in texture and appearance. I do store my bike in a carport outside and only installed the PCFC as of Thursday so it's new to me. The exhaust and other mods are from 2016.

2. The old plugs are NGK Iridium CR9EIX. I never knew that about spark plugs and just checked the tips. All of them are flat and the same. I think it just looks pointy in the pic. That's good news to me now that I know that. I didn't have any pinging before, or at least not that I ever noticed. The two plugs on the right were loose where I didn't have to break the seat when I was uninstalling them like I did with the 1st two. I only use Shell gas and generally unleaded but I did add some lucas fuel stabilizer over the winter a couple times. When I've nearly stalled or did stall out before I didn't hear anything unusual. Do you think I should start running premium fuel?

3. I'll definitely pull the plugs in a 1k miles and post back some pics. I'm very interested to see what shows up myself now. I wish I knew what you do, but I know I'll get there eventually. I'm going to ride today and will run it a little on the harder side and see what happens. I did notice that my engine temp was lower than usual. Usually it's up to 180 when I run it for 20 minutes in 50 degrees but it stayed around 167 most of the time yesterday.

I can't wait to do the advance timing mod and already picked up some files to do it. I'm just going to copy the method to your specs lol. Thanks man!
 

sti491

Member
1. Yes I noticed the anti seize on there but didn't really think about it at the time. I'm think the original owner must've done plugs and used too much like you said. It's just like old anti seize in texture and appearance. I do store my bike in a carport outside and only installed the PCFC as of Thursday so it's new to me. The exhaust and other mods are from 2016.

2. The old plugs are NGK Iridium CR9EIX. I never knew that about spark plugs and just checked the tips. All of them are flat and the same. I think it just looks pointy in the pic. That's good news to me now that I know that. I didn't have any pinging before, or at least not that I ever noticed. The two plugs on the right were loose where I didn't have to break the seat when I was uninstalling them like I did with the 1st two. I only use Shell gas and generally unleaded but I did add some lucas fuel stabilizer over the winter a couple times. When I've nearly stalled or did stall out before I didn't hear anything unusual. Do you think I should start running premium fuel?

3. I'll definitely pull the plugs in a 1k miles and post back some pics. I'm very interested to see what shows up myself now. I wish I knew what you do, but I know I'll get there eventually. I'm going to ride today and will run it a little on the harder side and see what happens. I did notice that my engine temp was lower than usual. Usually it's up to 180 when I run it for 20 minutes in 50 degrees but it stayed around 167 most of the time yesterday.

I can't wait to do the advance timing mod and already picked up some files to do it. I'm just going to copy the method to your specs lol. Thanks man!
Ok, based on your plug description it must have been the pic angle that made the tips look pointy. I think everything is A-ok with your engine. Premium vs Regular is as controversial as which oil to run. I figure, relatively speaking, I use so little gas in my bike compared to my cars I'll run premium all the time. When you change the timing you will ALWAYS need to run Premium.

We have stations around here that sell ethanal free "pure" premium. Right now it's almost $4/gal. Pricey, but I have used it. Probably overkill. You need as high an Octane Premium as you can get when the timing mod is done. It's the price to play!

Shell is generally a very good brand of gas. My Dad who has passed now, retired from Shell oil. He worked on Craig Breedlove's Spirit of America jet car at the Bonneville Salt Flats, where it captured the world land speed record. He also worked F1 when Shell was a sponsor.

I am happy to help. There are several others on this site that have helped me greatly. Pay it forward man...
 


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