FZ6R Oil Change - How To


rjohnson5481

New Member
Getting the filter off was the easy part for me, you can use oil filter pliers and crush it, which helped me get enough turn. Putting it on without crushing it is the hard part, always have to tighten it after warming it up to stop it from leaking..
 

AngryAnt

New Member
It hasn't been long since I did my 600 mile oil change, and I'm quickly coming up on my 1000 mile oil change, which should be it until 4000.

I do city driving almost exclusively and will probably only put 2000-3000 a year at most. My question: I used Mobil 1 4T racing oil synthetic last time, should I stick with the same which I can get locally easily, or spend an extra few dollars and days tracking down Amsoil? Has anybody switched from 4T to Amsoil and noticed a difference?
 

semillerimages

New Member
Dip stick reading?

For the life of me, I can't see how to properly read the dipstick on my FZ6R. I'm not a dumb person, but how should the stick look when there's a proper amount of oil in the bike???
 

Bloke

New Member
If it's like mine on the xj6...

Unscrew, pull out, wipe clean.

Place dipstick back into engine DO NOT SCREW IT IN AT ALL!

Just lightly rest it against the first thread.

Remove once again and look

Oil mark should be somewhere around the middle of the hashed area, providing it's not super low or above the marking, you're good.


Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
 

JSP

Super Moderator
Is the proper position of the bike for reading the dipstick upright or on the side stand?
Upright. And do not thread the dipstick in.
 

TokenSSDD

New Member
Is the proper position of the bike for reading the dipstick upright or on the side stand?
I've been told upright by most bike people I've asked.
 

txjames

Member
Elite Member

Invader Jim

New Member
I bought this, Lisle 54700 65/67mm Cap Wrench, from amazon.com for $7.50. It worked perfectly to remove the factory oil filter for the 600 mile oil change. Size is 65/67mm and 14 flutes.
 

WKD

New Member
Hey anyone got a picture of the plug with the seal? I am darn near sure that I didn't lose the seal but after putting it back in I lose about a drop every few hours. Since this is the first time I changed the oil on this bike I haven't actually seen the plug and seal for it and I want to rule that out. I figured it would be losing a lot more if there wasn't a seal there. Is it a little flat metal washer?

Edit: Nevermind I had re-torqued it last night and this morning we are dry. Just paranoid new bikeness disease...:zombie:
 
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bleedinblue

Senior Member
Elite Member

Faddy

New Member
I just changed my oil after 350 miles on the bike. I took off the whole side fairing so it will be easier to work it. Only took me 10 mins. 6 bolts, 1 clip, 4 screws from the exhaust headers cover, and unclip the turn signal. It made it easier for me torque the oil nut...it will on there pretty tight. I had to hammer it loose. The oil filter wasn't that bad, I had an oil filter claw (invest in one; they're great!) which made the job really easy....those wires around it can be annoying.
 

Snowolf

New Member
FZ6R Oil Change

This post was Excellent! Thanks a bunch. It actually went smoother than I thought. Got the filter wrench and it worked like a charm. Thanks much!!;)
 

Unr3al11

New Member
Planing on getting the Purolator Pure One PL14610 but does anyone know what the purpose of a long filter is for?
 

Scott_Thomas

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Elite Member



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