Change your brake fluid

[SkyOrDie]

I just put on Spiegler stainless steel front brake lines. The brake fluid was a bit discolored and stank. The bike is a 2011 and I got it new just about 1 year ago. That seems a bit early, so I recommend you bleed your lines with some fresh fluid.

 

[dart1963]

Brake fluid and coolant, at least every two years, more depending on your riding style /miles.

If you ride hard / brake hard, a fluid with a higher boiling point temp also recommended.

 

[nismos14]

How difficult is it to change the brake fluid?

 

[Marthy]

How difficult is it to change the brake fluid?

As easy as taking a pi$$! LOL

 

[nismos14]

As easy as taking a pi$$! LOL

Hahhaa, nice. I'll go do it now............... jk

Is it intuitive? or some instructions necessary to follow?

 

[Marthy]

Hahhaa, nice. I'll go do it now............... jk

Is it intuitive? or some instructions necessary to follow?

Just wash your hands afterward... you should be fine!

 

[BKP]

Well... taking a piss is just *slightly* simpler... If you let the entire system bleed out, without refilling the master, it'll take forever to get all the bubbles out. I had to do this right after I bought my bike, since they did a piss poor job of checking fluid/air levels on my bike at checkout.

You want to get a manual brake bleeder kit ('bout $17 from Cyclegear, and it's re-usable).
STOCKTON TOOL COMPANY Parts & Accessories - Brake Bleeder Tool - Cycle Gear

And, then you want to watch this to see how it's done (much easier if you have someone there pulling the brake lever, while you work the caliper screw:

Motorcycle Brake Bleeding Procedure from Sportbiketrackgear.com - YouTube

 

[dart1963]

While you're at it upgrade the lines too!!!
Sales at knerdraggers
http://www.kneedraggers.com/2009-yamaha-fz6r--Galfer-FrontRear-Brake-Line-Combo?mmy_source=pdp

 

[Michael Wilson]

it easier to suck out all the old fluid from the resivor (leaving the lines full of fluid) then pour new fluid in, crack the bleeder valves and pump brake until fresh fluid is seen. Just dont forget to top off your resivor and dont let it get too low and get air bubble in your lines.

 

[MistahT]

While you're at it upgrade the lines too!!!

My last bike was supposed to get new oem lines every 2 years. Stainless were actually cheaper and made a big difference.... and never need replacing!

 

[JSP]

it easier to suck out all the old fluid from the resivor (leaving the lines full of fluid) then pour new fluid in, crack the bleeder valves and pump brake until fresh fluid is seen. Just dont forget to top off your resivor and dont let it get too low and get air bubble in your lines.

I am going to go that route when doing my fluid swap. Don't have the money for new lines right now. Possibly next time the fluid needs swapped.

 

[MNGreg]

My last bike was supposed to get new oem lines every 2 years. Stainless were actually cheaper and made a big difference.... and never need replacing!

Thats one reason I replaced all the lines on mine with SS lines. I was doing SS on front but then when looking at price for the OEM rear, I saw that the SS was only *literally a few dollars more and will never have to think about replacing every 4 yrs again.

I am having my shop put the new lines on and change the fluid this time since soo cheap. I did purchase the Motion Pro Bleeder tool ($22)for the future. Looks nice, seems like you open your valve and this tool makes it basically into a speed bleeder not having to keep opening and closing, just keep pulling/pushing the brake lever and watch the fluid level and clarity.

 

[buzzbomb]

it easier to suck out all the old fluid from the resivor (leaving the lines full of fluid) then pour new fluid in, crack the bleeder valves and pump brake until fresh fluid is seen. Just dont forget to top off your resivor and dont let it get too low and get air bubble in your lines.

I don't know. I changed the fluid out pretty easy. Just put a 1/4" ID hose on the nipple. Press the lever, crack the nipple. Close the nipple. Repeated. Just before the fluid got to the intake, I added fresh.

Press the lever. Crack the bleeder. Close the bleeder. Press the lever. Crack the bleeder. Close the bleeder. So long as the lever is in when the bleeder is cracked, there's no bubbles.

I changed front and rear in 30 minutes or so. Honestly no big deal.

Had a wee jar of nasty-ass brake fluid when I was done. My lines and calipers had nice, clear fluid. Truly, it just wasn't that hard.

 

[Michael Wilson]

ya its not hard my way jsut takes out some of the brake pumping thats all.

 

[JSP]

Did my clutch fluid and brake fluid last week. Had the wife help me and it was a breeze. Definitely needed changed. Nasty dirty lookin fluids. Nice and clear now. I was always afraid of doing bleeding but its so simple.

 

[bmw675]

Press the lever. Crack the bleeder. Close the bleeder. Press the lever. Crack the bleeder. Close the bleeder. So long as the lever is in when the bleeder is cracked, there's no bubbles.

You can also get a motion pro mini bleeder to avoid having to do that.
Works great.

 

[MNGreg]

You can also get a motion pro mini bleeder to avoid having to do that.
Works great.

Thats what I got to do mine in the future now. Looks and sounds like a nice tool to make it mostly a 1 person job. Only about $22 also.

 

[Rabbitman109]

Thats what I got to do mine in the future now. Looks and sounds like a nice tool to make it mostly a 1 person job. Only about $22 also.

You can do it by yourself with one hand... I just did my FZ1. Just need one hand for the brake, and one for the wrench on the bleeder screw.

 

[JT]

I purchased the special tool and ended up throwing the hunk of junk away and doing what rabbitman just suggested. one hand for lever other for bleeder screw

 

[bmw675]

I like to do one hand on the lever, and the other pouring the fluid in.

I purchased the special tool and ended up throwing the hunk of junk away and doing what rabbitman just suggested. one hand for lever other for bleeder screw

What was it doing wrong for you?