I appreciate your educated opinion, and while that may be true for most types of clamps, the difference here is the gap. With the gap in the front, your bars may rotate if you have to hit the brakes hard and all your weight is pushing on the bars. The bars are less likely to rotate towards the non gap side(where the arrows are) as that side will be torqued tighter than the gap side. Just my opinion and I could be wrong but in over 25 years of riding motorcycles, I have never seen the gap to the front.
Adjusting handlebar position
- Thread starter MNDZA
- Start date
regarding seating & riding positions...
i did a canyon ride this sunday am and experimented with different seating positions- ie normal upright -vs.- butt further back/ leaned over more. and, with the inclines going up the mountain, and declines going down the mountain, i have to say that it was extremely frustrating and difficult.
unless you're on flat ground, the fz6r really only seems to want to be ridden with your crotch at the tank and upright- ie touring position. otherwise, your butt slides back and forth and it not only leads to instability, but incessant frustration- not to mention constant pressure release and force on the handle bars, from climbs and descents.
anyone else notice this as well?
i did a canyon ride this sunday am and experimented with different seating positions- ie normal upright -vs.- butt further back/ leaned over more. and, with the inclines going up the mountain, and declines going down the mountain, i have to say that it was extremely frustrating and difficult.
unless you're on flat ground, the fz6r really only seems to want to be ridden with your crotch at the tank and upright- ie touring position. otherwise, your butt slides back and forth and it not only leads to instability, but incessant frustration- not to mention constant pressure release and force on the handle bars, from climbs and descents.
anyone else notice this as well?
only now that it's cold... summer, my @$$ planted wherever I put it... now that it's in the 30-40's... and I have layers on... I kinda slide a bit.
The tank pads/grippers whatever will help, gives you something to grab onto with the inside of your legs, I just haven't bought them yet, too busy doing other things (riding and enjoying the views of Fall!)
The tank pads/grippers whatever will help, gives you something to grab onto with the inside of your legs, I just haven't bought them yet, too busy doing other things (riding and enjoying the views of Fall!)
well, the thing is when you're trying to lean into a turn, you have to shift your body weight slightly- which means your legs cannot be glued to the side of the bike... when it's uphill it's not so bad, but doing downhill it's like a ship-in-a-bottle for me. well, my butt, that is... and, what ends up happening is that instead of being able to relax my arms- ie curve the arm on the inside of the turn and slightly straighten the arm opposite of the turn, i feel like i have to do a push up to keep my arse from moving... 
Are you shifting your butt side to side at all? Are you talking more aggressive cornering or just cruising? If you're using proper body positioning for aggressive riding, your crotch really shouldn't be anywhere near the tank in aggressive cornering, it should be 3 or 4 inches to the inside and your outside knee should be hooked on the outside of the tank. Like dart mentioned, tank gripers like like StompGrip help a lot with that.
Well, I'm not turning that aggressively at all.., I'm just adjusting my butt very slightly off-center towards the inside of the turn and angling my inside leg just a little towards the direction of the turn. But, downhill it doesn't work or my butt will slide if I'm seated "back" on the seat.
Maybe the grip things might help I guess... =|
Maybe the grip things might help I guess... =|
redwing-2001
New Member
tank grippers should help. they will be my next purchase.
I too find myself forward and close to the tank when riding in the mountains. this position keeps my arms more relaxed (elbows bent). Leg and lower back muscles are used to move around when leaning into a turn, very little (virtually no) arms are used to support body weight. Minor seat position (fore and aft), I would think, depends on the individuals physique. Good that you are experimenting and finding what works for you.
Daniel.Andariese
New Member
The best advice I can offer are these four steps to remember: Slow, Look, Press, and roll. Slow: reduce speed as need prior to initiating the turn, try not to brake when turning. Look: Search thru the entire turn and keep your eyes moving. Always scan 2 seconds, 4 seconds and 12 seconds ahead of you, looking for hazards in your path of direction that can cause problems. Press: To initiate the turn, press forward on the handlegrip in the direction disired, press left lean left, press right lean right. This is referred to as countersteering. Roll: Roll on your throttle to keep from losing speed, unless you see a hazard or entered the turn with too much speed. Maintaining or slightly increasing throttle will help stablize your bikes suspension. Roll out of the turn. Lastly, counterweighting is the correct term used to shift weight when in a tight turn such as U-turn or a parking lot. In most situations you and your bike should lean together, always keep your legs against your tank, hope this helps!
auniquesoul
New Member
damn good explanation on cornering!
Yes I agree this is a good explaination of LOW SPEED cornering. Just remember the easiest way to corner at speeds greater than 40KM/H (25m/h) is to push on the handle bars in the opposite direction to which you are turning i.e. if turning left push forward on the left bar, if turning right push forward on the right bar. You will find that the bike will automaticaly lean into the corner and you can corner at much higher speeds than can otherwise be achieved by trying to turn into the corners.
If unsure try this on a straight stretch of road as you can always rectify on a straight stretch of road but not when your actualy cornering.... Hope this helps.
If unsure try this on a straight stretch of road as you can always rectify on a straight stretch of road but not when your actualy cornering.... Hope this helps.
ajskillz13
New Member
Rolled my handlebars down maybe a quarter inch (from the mark I made by the risers) and the difference is amazing!!! It brought the grips closer to me and puts them at a more natural angle. I kept them just high enough to not hit the tank in lock position.
This was such a quick and easy mod. Only question is if Loc-tite is needed when replacing the screws holding the bar in the riser??? They didn't appear to have any on before and I may have hand tightened them tighter than they originally were.
I don't have much experience with these things. I just trust what you guys post on here!:thumbup:
This was such a quick and easy mod. Only question is if Loc-tite is needed when replacing the screws holding the bar in the riser??? They didn't appear to have any on before and I may have hand tightened them tighter than they originally were.
I don't have much experience with these things. I just trust what you guys post on here!:thumbup:
jokerX
New Member
I didn't apply any loc tite to mine either. Just tried moving them today. I will check them in a few days to ensure they don't back out, but they should be ok. I flipped the risers to the forward lean position hoping that it would get me down lower out of the wind. Watching the hockey game so I haven't gotten to go for a real ride yet. I also rolled the bars down to see how it felt, on a short ride it was bothering my wrists a bit. I am gonna leave them for a bit to see. I think the clutch lever needs to be lowered a bit as well.
Question 1: In the front position, are the handlebar risers supposed to seat flush in the front but have a space in the back? Mine were installed from the dealer in the rear position but the arrow going foward.
Now, I have the bulge forward, and the arrow forward but the cap doesn't seat flush in the front and back..??
PS: Thanks to whoever it tipped about leaving the 4 top screws in first, it's damn near impossible to remove the bottom riser nuts without using the steering bar for leverage.
Edit: read earlier the gap should be in the back due to braking pressures =)
Now, I have the bulge forward, and the arrow forward but the cap doesn't seat flush in the front and back..??
PS: Thanks to whoever it tipped about leaving the 4 top screws in first, it's damn near impossible to remove the bottom riser nuts without using the steering bar for leverage.
Edit: read earlier the gap should be in the back due to braking pressures =)
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I put my risers in the forward position, installed FZ-1 drag bars and rolled them down for a more agressive perch. I also raised my forks (lowered the front) 1 inch. This gives me a better feel and awesome response from the bike. I would love to install Woodcraft or Apex clip-ons above the triple, but that would require raising the forks another 1/2 inch. If I can find a Steering Stabilizer to fit our bike perhaps I'll make it happen.
KelownaKeith, you really sound like Saul Goodman from the series 'Breaking Bad'.
Appreciate your video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=U_HbzFhII8s
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBeQO1nBThQ]Better Call Saul: The funniest things Bob Odenkirk says on Breaking Bad. - YouTube[/ame]
Appreciate your video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=U_HbzFhII8s
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBeQO1nBThQ]Better Call Saul: The funniest things Bob Odenkirk says on Breaking Bad. - YouTube[/ame]
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LocoLechero
New Member
just did this mod - risers in the forward position- bar rotated toward me - feels great!!! my wrists need to get used to it but i'm already enjoying the more aggressive less touring feel on the bars- great EASY fast mod - now i gotta get rid of these bunny ears