I am using the PDF copy of the factory service manual that has been around since 2009. It calls for 57 Ft. Lbs torque on the rear sprocket nuts. That sounds too high, and when I try to tighten them to that value it feels too tight. Anyone know of an updated spec.?
The Fizzer is a very smooth bike, but some vibration is always going to be there. If you are feeling it mostly in the handlebars, not in the footpegs or seat, a good trick is to fill the handlebars with steel BB's. Remove the right side bar end weight (it unscrews) and turn the bars full left...
This is false. Starter and alternator are 2 different units.
Questions for Lovelife:
What did you do to repair the starter?
Have you connected any accessories to the electrical system recently?
Lovelife: The simple checks are as follows:
Test the battery voltage with a basic voltmeter. You...
From an old issue of AMA magazine:
"Riding is part of who we are, and we can’t imagine not riding. We dread the day when age or illness will inevitably force us to park our rides for the final time.
Until then, we love the surge of the engine when we roll on the throttle, and the...
If you want new, there may be some leftovers still available. I got my 2015 in Jan. of 2016 at a good price - $6900. Any dealer can do a search for you. Lots of lightly used ones probably at good prices because of off-season.
Yup, I have done a few staked master links in my life. Gave away my tool on my last home move because I didn't have the FZR at the time. I don't mind spending an hour or so to drop the swing arm because I can check to see if it can use some lubrication.
At 13K miles, and wanting to replace chain and sprockets. I like to stick with stock parts, so the swing arm has to come off. I am wondering if anyone has done it by just pulling the pivot bolt, and not having to disconnect the shock and brake line, etc.
Since the code 33 is ignition coil specific, and you have high mileage, my bet would be an ignition coil. Coil-on-plug designs take a beating from engine heat and vibration. Since the symptoms are intermittent, a static DC resistance test of the coils is unlikely to show a fault.
Your battery voltage looks bad. A fully charged 12 volt battery at rest (bike turned off) should be 12.8 (+/- 0.2) volts.
With the bike running, you should see 14.0 (+/- 0.4) volts.
If the voltage while riding falls below about 11.0 volts it can cause solid state systems in the bike to cut...