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Thread: New... '09 FZ6R

  1. #1

    Default New... '09 FZ6R

    Hey all,

    Last August, I picked up a '09 FZ6R with just over 2000 miles on her! The previous owner bought it in the spring, but being 6' 5", wanted something bigger and got a Harley. So he put 13 miles on it in 5 months. Up for sale it went on Craigslist, and within two days and a test drive later, I took her home:



    I was told this thing was all stock, with the exception of the exhaust and some cosmetics. But a day later, I find this to be untrue. Went to put my insurance and reg under the seat, and noticed a "POWER BOOST +25 HP GAS SAVER MOD" box zip tied in there:



    Oh no. Whatever, I will deal with that later on. "Later on" turned out to be that weekend, because a day later, I was at a red light, blipped the throttle, and the bike stalled out on me.

    So I followed the wires from this mystery box, and they disappeared under the tank. So I removed the tank. Wires went to what I think I think was the air temp sensor. The factory wires were cut, then the box was wired inline, and then everything taped back together. Real crappy job. Thankfully this made the box easy to remove. Busted out the soldering iron and repaired the cut plug wires.

    Took the box apart out of curiosity. Turns out it was nothing more than a resistor:



    Best guess here, but I am thinking this resistor lowered the signal voltage sent to the ECU, to make the appear as if the temp was warner than it really is, and adjusted the A/F ratio to run slightly lean?? Haven't got the bike together yet to see if the stalling issue has been resolved.

    I will be posting a tech thread soon. Long story short, I also found out the bike was lowered, and it has clip-ons rather than handlebars. It's too low, and the brake line hits the top of the fairing when turned all the way. Removed the lowering link from the rear but now there is a gap between the clipons and the triple tree? I am not very mechanically savvy when it comes to bikes, but I think I need longer risers.. Will post up a tech thread later on, I just wanted to get a noob post in first.
    Last edited by XpL0d3r; 05-01-2018 at 08:18 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member BluePill's Avatar
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    Let's see - Adds HP and gives you better fuel economy at the same time?


    Right here at 100%




    Most likely wired in SERIES with the stock air temp. sensor to mimic a colder ambient temp. and richen the mixture. 5600 ohms is quite a bit, and would probably make the catalyst run hot.
    Last edited by BluePill; 03-11-2018 at 03:14 PM.
    Now: 2015 FZ6R & 2008 WR250R
    Past: 2009 FZ6R & 2008 CBR1000RR

  3. #3
    Senior Member MrFrzZ's Avatar
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    Judging by the first pic, that bike was lowered WAY too much in the front. I'd ditch the rear lowering link, and raise the front end so the top of your forks is flush with the clip on clamp... see how that feels. Probably was someone who owned the bike and tried to make it a home-made r6 "on a budget."


    ETA - I've always been fond of that Yellow scheme. Good looking bike... Swap out some metzeler M7's on there when the time comes.

  4. #4
    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrFrzZ View Post
    Judging by the first pic, that bike was lowered WAY too much in the front. I'd ditch the rear lowering link, and raise the front end so the top of your forks is flush with the clip on clamp... see how that feels. Probably was someone who owned the bike and tried to make it a home-made r6 "on a budget."


    ETA - I've always been fond of that Yellow scheme. Good looking bike... Swap out some metzeler M7's on there when the time comes.
    ++++ on the Metzler Sportec M7 RR's. LOVE mine!
    '12 Raven/DS70/PC/Block offs/Cut air box short v-stacks/Timing adv/-1 frt sprocket/Metzeler M7RR's/90o stems/spools/sliders/GD opener/Acc-USB plugs/Volt meter/Jewel switch/Phone mount/LEDs: Amber Jewel/Headlight/Smoke tail & flush frt & pod sig-DLR/underseat red sig-brake/DMP fender eliminator/Lithium battery/Puig touring screen/Grip Puppies/Seat 1.5" higher/Rox 1" up & back risers/Gear Indicator/KTM tail pack/M1 alarm/CC/Tank Pads/SS BL/3 back surgeries/Old fart balls of steel/Happy to be here.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrFrzZ View Post
    Judging by the first pic, that bike was lowered WAY too much in the front. I'd ditch the rear lowering link, and raise the front end so the top of your forks is flush with the clip on clamp... see how that feels. Probably was someone who owned the bike and tried to make it a home-made r6 "on a budget."


    ETA - I've always been fond of that Yellow scheme. Good looking bike... Swap out some metzeler M7's on there when the time comes.
    Yep, my thoughts exactly... budget r6 lol.

    Rear link is gone. Not exactly sure how to raise the front up though. I think I just need OEM risers? New to doing pretty much anything on a bike. This is my second one.

    I will likely get an OE handlebar as well. I like the look of the clipons, but I rather keep the bike how it's meant to be for now (other than the exhaust, I like it). For some reason the throttle doesn't return back as snappy as it should...

  6. #6
    Senior Member MrFrzZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XpL0d3r View Post
    Yep, my thoughts exactly... budget r6 lol.

    Rear link is gone. Not exactly sure how to raise the front up though. I think I just need OEM risers? New to doing pretty much anything on a bike. This is my second one.

    I will likely get an OE handlebar as well. I like the look of the clipons, but I rather keep the bike how it's meant to be for now (other than the exhaust, I like it). For some reason the throttle doesn't return back as snappy as it should...

    If you have a friend, or can rig up a solid jack point, You can loosen the triple clamp (CAREFULLY) and lift the front of the bike. I marked my forks with a paint pen and post its actually. Had my wife loosen them while I held the front end. Once it let loose, I lowered it until we hit the mark. One side went to far so I had to pick it back up and basically just let the fork slide back down where it needed to go. I would raise it back up to about an 1.75" and then remount the clip ons. Take a ride and see how she feels after that. I would not leave the front end that since you took out that rear link.

    Once you raise the bike back up, the throttle cable will probably free up a bit. I had this issue when I lowered mine. It was binding. I ended up bending out that cable router that is in front of the triple tree to give it more room to move. It seemed to do the trick. When I replace the cable, I may see an older R6 cable will fit better. I need to check the lengths.

    Do you know if it has the OEM Fork springs or if the oil was replaced with thicker? I'd image that thing is going to bottom out on the smallest bump in the road.

  7. #7
    Senior Member MrFrzZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrFrzZ View Post
    If you have a friend, or can rig up a solid jack point, You can loosen the triple clamp (CAREFULLY) and lift the front of the bike. I marked my forks with a paint pen and post its actually. Had my wife loosen them while I held the front end. Once it let loose, I lowered it until we hit the mark. One side went to far so I had to pick it back up and basically just let the fork slide back down where it needed to go. I would raise it back up to about an 1.75" and then remount the clip ons. Take a ride and see how she feels after that. I would not leave the front end that since you took out that rear link.

    Once you raise the bike back up, the throttle cable will probably free up a bit. I had this issue when I lowered mine. It was binding. I ended up bending out that cable router that is in front of the triple tree to give it more room to move. It seemed to do the trick. When I replace the cable, I may see an older R6 cable will fit better. I need to check the lengths.

    Do you know if it has the OEM Fork springs or if the oil was replaced with thicker? I'd image that thing is going to bottom out on the smallest bump in the road.
    So I just logged in and read my own reply.... That is about as redneck as you can get.... what I would SUGGEST doing is slightly less redneck, and a bit safer... If you have a shed, carport, something that has a solid cross member that will support a few hundred pounds, run a ratchet strap around the triple clamp and tighten it up. Loosen the Triple clamp bolts and then start cranking on the ratchet strap to lift the front. Once you've hit the spot when you want to be at (~1.5"-1.75") leave it there, measure each side 3 or 4 times to make sure they match and then tighten the triple clamp bolts.

    FWIW - I lowered mine 1.5" My clip on clamps do NOT sit flush with the top of the forks. Once I swap out the front fork springs/ oil, I'll probably go ahead and drop it until they are flush.

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    I noticed the same thing...why would a tall person lower a bike. It's like wiping before you poop...it just makes no sense.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by vcdstroyr View Post
    I noticed the same thing...why would a tall person lower a bike. It's like wiping before you poop...it just makes no sense.
    Guy before him lowered it. Guy I bought from rode it a week, then realized it was too low for him, and it sat all summer in his garage until he decided to sell. Wasn't him that lowered it.

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