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Thread: 15T front sprocket; Chain alignment tool; Wow... need a new riding position!

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    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Default 15T front sprocket; Chain alignment tool; Wow... need a new riding position!

    Ok, I have several posts documenting my mods. The power mods have been Marthy style Delkevic DS70 can with DBK, PC5 running Adv Gear Rev B map, with Accell Pump set to 45/30/10, fully cut airbox, and +3 or 4 degree timing advance. The results have been stellar. Loud, but stellar.

    Just finished installing a new Driven 15T front sprocket. That's -1 tooth from stock. I won't go through the install in detail because that is well documented. All I'll add is you are supposed to replace the nut with a new one when doing this per the manual. This is due to the edge of the nut having a slight flange that is peened with a drift into a notch on the shaft as an anti-loosening method. Normally I do things by the book. I did use the old one this time due to bad planning on my part, and, when you retighten, all you have to do is start the nut in a different place on the shaft and the area you peen is fresh. As long as you are not peening the same spot, I don't think using the old nut matters. Your results may vary.

    The job is straight forward and relatively easy. I cleaned and lubed my chain at the same time, cleaning the gunk that accumulates under the front sprocket cover. Because the new sprocket is smaller, the alignment you have previously is useless to go back to, the chain will be far to loose.

    This was the first time I used the chain alignment tool that my son bought. Cool little gizmo: see pic. Easy peasy. I am assuming getting that right assures the entire wheel is in alignment. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

    The sprocket change will save you a little less than an ounce...w00 w00, just dont eat that cheeseburger for lunch. In theory it is noisier without the rubber insert on the OEM one. Who knows, my bike is so loud I couldn't tell. I am actually now thinking all that rubber is a dampner, making it a bit smoother? Not sure.

    Riding... well hold on folks! Martin and I were talking about my mods. From his experience and dyno results on other bikes he estimated I probably have 8-10 HP gain from stock 65HP: maybe up to 75HP, or a bit less. With associated weight savings I've done with Lithium Phosphate battery, fender eliminator, De-catting which was a serious boat anchor compared to my under 3lbs Delkevic can, my ol' butt dyno "feels like" a 20% improvement for sure.

    I have become very used to riding it this way. I changed the seating position on my bike because I'm 6'3". So I have a more upright seating position than a lot of FZ6R riders I assume. I have also had 3 back surgeries, so clip-on like leaned over is not in the cards for me. Previously my riding style had been comfy riding position, roll on 1st pretty hard without absolutely twisting the throttle as fast as I could. The front wheel gets light, maybe raises up a very small amount, then 2nd gear and so on. Since my other mods it is very lively and fun, smooth and repeatable, with the kind of adrenaline rush I like, but in control (mostly, LOL).

    The first 45 min or so on the bike after the sprocket I was looking at the tach, speedo and gps speed a lot, which I normally never do hardly at all when riding. I was checking the calibration change in speed and also odometer for mileage checks. This was not much fun. Easy to run into a tree. I did notice more perceived torque cruising in 6th or 5th. Not so much need to downshift as before.

    I got complacent, pulled out of a country intersection, 90 degrees onto a straight, and a little aggressively rolled on the throttle in 1st.... Out of control wheelie time! Weeeeee.... and scary because I wasn't expecting it. So I calmed down and started enjoying the bike looking at the road not the gauges. Came to another stop, but this time making a 90 degree turn onto a busy road. I waited a while for traffic, but eventually needed to accelerate pretty hard if I was ever going to get into the the line of cars going 50 MPH. So I moved my butt up. I was balls-to-tank, pulled out and hit 1st. Not good. Stupid high wheelie, over correct, came down hard enough to make my arthritic elbows hurt, miss 2nd, embarrass myself and go home. I rest for a half hour, a little bummed my first ride was, er, eventful.

    My son was home then and took my bike for a ride. He came back, high 5'd me and said, "Congrats pops, you finally achieved your goal, the bike is fast and really fun now!". So I explained my experience. He said don't so much slide your butt forward, but move your head & chest down closer to the tank.

    So I then go for a short ride, that turned into a 2 hr country road romp. I frequently arch my back when cruising just to stretch. Sometimes I'll even ride that way for a while. The adjustment I made to my riding style is to do that arch and lean down over the tank in first & second, then just go back to my normal comfy seating position (for me). WOW! The bike just flies. With upper body weight more over the bike it still lifts the front wheel a bit, but in a more controlled fashion. The bike feels MUCH quicker, way more throttle input sensitive, which, like seating position takes a little getting used to.

    For those reading this that think I'm a dumb-*** or noob for not knowing this riding style, well, 3 mths ago it had been over 33 years since I rode a bike. Back then I had a 1972 Triumph 650 Bonneville, jetted with open TT pipes. Bike riding, like a lot of things in life if you live long enough, is a diminishing skill if you don't practice it. I'm getting there!

    I was a bit concerned that I would not like higher cruising revs with this change. I think it's hardly noticeable in practice, however. Highly recommend. I was going to go without a speedohealer, but it's a PIA to calculate the difference speed corrections in your head with a State Trooper following you. I just ordered a SpeedoDRD Y1 Speedometer Calibrator because it's smaller (I have little room under my seat with the PC5 & alarm), and it was $70 vs over $100 for the Healer.

    The only thing I have left now is to try all short velocity stacks vs all Long. I just don't buy that two long and two short makes sense with the airbox cut open like I have it. Maybe someday I'll do cams. Not anytime soon. Loving' the way she is now!
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    Last edited by sti491; 02-28-2018 at 07:05 AM.

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    So -1/0 doesn't require a different length chain? Can you do highway speeds comfortably? Like 70mph for an extended period of time?

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    Same chain, no worries whatsoever. Yesterday was the first day I did what I would call a long highway trip. 200 miles, mostly all on highway going 60-80mph. Honestly, I think the difference in hwy revs is less than the tach needle width. I admit to not checking this super carefully before making the sprocket change, but I thought it was close to what it is now. Yesterday at 7,000 RPM I'm at 70, possibly 71 mph. Same w/60 & 80 mph, i.e., 60 mph is approx 6,000rpm, 80 mph = 8,000.

    Keep in mind I put a speedo healer on (actually a SpeedoDRD Y1 Speedometer Calibrator, it's smaller and cheaper) after I did the sprocket change. My stock speedo from the factory was off approx 6%. With the sprocket it was off a total of 13%. With that correction, my speedo now exactly matches my GPS speed. So it you or others have a different result, either use a GPS nav speed reading or recognize my difference.

    One thing I am thankful for with all my mods including this one, is I am getting no discernible buzzing through may bars at any speed, since changing back to my Yamaha OEM bar ends. It was bad at highway speeds with some smaller, very light CF aftermarket ends I had on for a while.

    Also, in my normal country road riding mixing up ripping on the bike with 50 mph cruising I average 39-40 MPG. On yesterday'sride at say an average of 70 mph, including a few rips here and there, I got 48 mpg! That's using Martin's Adv Gear Rev B map, that has the touring leaner settings in 5 & 6th. It works! I was really surprised when I calculated 48 mpg. I checked it twice! Once again, a big shout out to Martin - Yay!


    Quote Originally Posted by TexanFZ6R View Post
    So -1/0 doesn't require a different length chain? Can you do highway speeds comfortably? Like 70mph for an extended period of time?
    Last edited by sti491; 03-30-2018 at 05:26 AM.
    '12 Raven/DS70/PC/Block offs/Cut air box short v-stacks/Timing adv/-1 frt sprocket/Metzeler M7RR's/90o stems/spools/sliders/GD opener/Acc-USB plugs/Volt meter/Jewel switch/Phone mount/LEDs: Amber Jewel/Headlight/Smoke tail & flush frt & pod sig-DLR/underseat red sig-brake/DMP fender eliminator/Lithium battery/Puig touring screen/Grip Puppies/Seat 1.5" higher/Rox 1" up & back risers/Gear Indicator/KTM tail pack/M1 alarm/CC/Tank Pads/SS BL/3 back surgeries/Old fart balls of steel/Happy to be here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sti491 View Post
    Same chain, no worries whatsoever. Yesterday was the first day I did what I would call a long highway trip. 200 miles, mostly all on highway going 60-80mph. Honestly, I think the difference in hwy revs is less than the tach needle width. I admit to not checking this super carefully before making the sprocket change, but I thought it was close to what it is now. Yesterday at 7,000 RPM I'm at 70, possibly 71 mph. Same w/60 & 80 mph, i.e., 60 mph is approx 6,000rpm, 80 mph = 8,000.

    Keep in mind I put a speedo healer on (actually a SpeedoDRD Y1 Speedometer Calibrator, it's smaller and cheaper) after I did the sprocket change. My stock speedo from the factory was off approx 6%. With the sprocket it was off a total of 13%. With that correction, my speedo now exactly matches my GPS speed. So it you or others have a different result, either use a GPS nav speed reading or recognize my difference.

    One thing I am thankful for with all my mods including this one, is I am getting no discernible buzzing through may bars at any speed, since changing back to my Yamaha OEM bar ends. It was bad at highway speeds with some smaller, very light CF aftermarket ends I had on for a while.

    Also, in my normal country road riding mixing up ripping on the bike with 50 mph cruising I average 39-40 MPG. On yesterday'sride at say an average of 70 mph, including a few rips here and there, I got 48 mpg! That's using Martin's Adv Gear Rev B map, that has the touring leaner settings in 5 & 6th. It works! I was really surprised when I calculated 48 mpg. I checked it twice! Once again, a big shout out to Martin - Yay!
    Good to hear. When you said it's much easier to get the front wheel up in first, you peaked my interest lmao. If I can get away with a cheap easy swap (sprocket), I have no issue doing it. Of course, I've got the timing change, velocit stacks, etc.. on the list too

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    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Much easier is an understatement. It may be due a lot to my 1" up/1" back bar risers.... I don't know for sure. But it's a matter of me either rolling on the throttle just a bit slower or leaning forward, or both. Other wise up she goes.

    I have almost mastered how to do it smoothly and not have it get very high, or maybe it is just unweighting, it's hard to tell.

    Fun factor is magnified big time. I can no longer rip it and not think about weight transfer. With clip ons it probably would not be that way.

    Quote Originally Posted by TexanFZ6R View Post
    Good to hear. When you said it's much easier to get the front wheel up in first, you peaked my interest lmao. If I can get away with a cheap easy swap (sprocket), I have no issue doing it. Of course, I've got the timing change, velocit stacks, etc.. on the list too
    Last edited by sti491; 03-31-2018 at 05:00 PM.
    '12 Raven/DS70/PC/Block offs/Cut air box short v-stacks/Timing adv/-1 frt sprocket/Metzeler M7RR's/90o stems/spools/sliders/GD opener/Acc-USB plugs/Volt meter/Jewel switch/Phone mount/LEDs: Amber Jewel/Headlight/Smoke tail & flush frt & pod sig-DLR/underseat red sig-brake/DMP fender eliminator/Lithium battery/Puig touring screen/Grip Puppies/Seat 1.5" higher/Rox 1" up & back risers/Gear Indicator/KTM tail pack/M1 alarm/CC/Tank Pads/SS BL/3 back surgeries/Old fart balls of steel/Happy to be here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sti491 View Post
    Much easier is an understatement. It may be due a lot to my 1" up/1" back bar risers.... I don't know for sure. But it's a matter of me either rolling on the throttle just a bit slower or leaning forward, or both. Other wise up she goes.

    I have almost mastered how to do it smoothly and not have it get very high, or maybe it is just unweighting, it's hard to tell.

    Fun factor is magnified big time. I can no longer rip it and not think about weight transfer. With clip ons it probably would not be that way.
    Happen to have a part bumber for the sprocket? Looking on driven's site and can't find fz6r specific

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    Nevermind. I found one. I'm assuming this is the correct part number?
    1041-520-15T

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    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexanFZ6R View Post
    Nevermind. I found one. I'm assuming this is the correct part number?
    1041-520-15T
    Yes! I bought mine on Amazon: $30. No tax free ship


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    '12 Raven/DS70/PC/Block offs/Cut air box short v-stacks/Timing adv/-1 frt sprocket/Metzeler M7RR's/90o stems/spools/sliders/GD opener/Acc-USB plugs/Volt meter/Jewel switch/Phone mount/LEDs: Amber Jewel/Headlight/Smoke tail & flush frt & pod sig-DLR/underseat red sig-brake/DMP fender eliminator/Lithium battery/Puig touring screen/Grip Puppies/Seat 1.5" higher/Rox 1" up & back risers/Gear Indicator/KTM tail pack/M1 alarm/CC/Tank Pads/SS BL/3 back surgeries/Old fart balls of steel/Happy to be here.

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    Was SpeedoDRD Y1 plug and play?

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