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Thread: Timing change....Do it!

  1. #21
    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott_Thomas View Post
    If you're somewhat mechanically inclined ,as you seem to be it's not overly difficult. I didn't have to degree my cams since I bought them second hand from Marthy so they were machined and ready to install. Use green loctite when reinstalling cam gear bolts. Trust me on this. I didn't loctite mine and bolts backed out and destroyed part of my head. Bought a new (used with less miles) head and reinstalled cams. Could have been much worse. Got the head cheap too. Only power mod I didn't do is the trigger mod and fz6 intake runner's. That's an easy mod since there's not as much to take off. I learned lots about bike mechanics doing 100 percent of my bike work myself. Need a dyno tune too. I have a decent FZ6 cam map for pc5 though. If you need any pointers myself or Marthy himself could help you out.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Thanks. I have the mechanical skill set. Would you mind sending me the cam map just so I have it? I can message you my e-mail...

  2. #22
    Insert title Here Scott_Thomas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sti491 View Post
    Thanks. I have the mechanical skill set. Would you mind sending me the cam map just so I have it? I can message you my e-mail...
    I can't get to it tonight, but can try tomorrow. I don't have it on my surface pro, but I think I have it on my old laptop (my son uses it). Worst case I pull it from my pc5 and load it onto my surface pro. I have the pc5 app on my phone. So send me your email addy and I'll get the map to you as soon as I can. I may have the adv gear rev b on there as well. Awesome map,but not good once you change cams.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Mods: /Shogun Sliders/ C. Werkes FE/ ZX6R Mirrors/ Flushmounts/ POW Tank Pad/ PC5/ Driven BO's/ Shorty Levers/ Kuryakyn Throttle Lock - Bar Ends/ AHR - HID/ LEDs-Air Scoop/ T-rex Spools/ Woodcraft Clip-Ons/ Kuryakyn ISO Grips/ Puig Racing Screen/ Ram Mount/ / Stompgrip/ Red Rim Stripes/ Red Spike Bolts/ CF Gas Cap Cover/Billet Alum. Pegs/ MD Integrated Taillight/ Healtech GiPro GI/Airbox Mod/ Short V Stacks/ FZ6 Cams/ Galfer Stainless Braided Brake Lines/ Volar Sintered HH pads/ Ogio tailbag



  3. #23
    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott_Thomas View Post
    I can't get to it tonight, but can try tomorrow. I don't have it on my surface pro, but I think I have it on my old laptop (my son uses it). Worst case I pull it from my pc5 and load it onto my surface pro. I have the pc5 app on my phone. So send me your email addy and I'll get the map to you as soon as I can. I may have the adv gear rev b on there as well. Awesome map,but not good once you change cams.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    I'll send you my e-mail address. Thank you very much. Martin and I have been in touch through my mods. I am currently running his adv gear rev b and love it! Thanks again for your assistance with the cam map.

  4. #24
    Insert title Here Scott_Thomas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sti491 View Post
    I'll send you my e-mail address. Thank you very much. Martin and I have been in touch through my mods. I am currently running his adv gear rev b and love it! Thanks again for your assistance with the cam map.
    Martin is the man when it comes to the 6r or just about anything with an engine.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    Mods: /Shogun Sliders/ C. Werkes FE/ ZX6R Mirrors/ Flushmounts/ POW Tank Pad/ PC5/ Driven BO's/ Shorty Levers/ Kuryakyn Throttle Lock - Bar Ends/ AHR - HID/ LEDs-Air Scoop/ T-rex Spools/ Woodcraft Clip-Ons/ Kuryakyn ISO Grips/ Puig Racing Screen/ Ram Mount/ / Stompgrip/ Red Rim Stripes/ Red Spike Bolts/ CF Gas Cap Cover/Billet Alum. Pegs/ MD Integrated Taillight/ Healtech GiPro GI/Airbox Mod/ Short V Stacks/ FZ6 Cams/ Galfer Stainless Braided Brake Lines/ Volar Sintered HH pads/ Ogio tailbag



  5. #25

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    Just wanted to share this with you guys (I know the tool pictured is probably not worth the cost for it from Yamaha for this particular mod but in case others wanted to know if there was another method to tightening the bolt) for the pick up rotor.

    For myself, I'm just going to take an 8 inch metal bracket bar and then drill a couple holes to accommodate 2 bolts to be bolted to it. Then I'll use it to simulate the wrench application in the pic. I think that would work.

    38813909840_c1755eec25_b by XRC, on Flickr
    Last edited by TN6R; 03-04-2018 at 05:23 PM.

  6. #26
    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TN6R View Post
    Just wanted to share this with you guys (I know the tool pictured is probably not worth the cost for it from Yamaha for this particular mod but in case others wanted to know if there was another method to tightening the bolt) for the pick up rotor.

    For myself, I'm just going to take an 8 inch metal bracket bar and then drill a couple holes to accommodate 2 bolts to be bolted to it. Then I'll use it to simulate the wrench application in the pic. I think that would work.

    38813909840_c1755eec25_b by XRC, on Flickr
    Seems like that would work fine. However, do you have an impact wrench, either air or electric? If not it's a nearly must have tool for lots of things.... sure makes taking tires off your car easier!

    My advice is to use an impact. Here is what I did after reading other methods, and getting great advice on this forum. I had my rear tire on a paddock stand (that's another worthwhile investment), but it could be on it's side stand as well. I indexed the wheel and the shaft with a sharpie marker. I looked at the part of the nut that was factory peened and decided the factory did a crappy enough job that it would impact off without me trying to bang it out some with a drift. The bike was in neutral. Then I used the impact gun with air pressure at 90PSI and it zipped right off, which in the process straightens the peened flange so it screws back on by hand leaving the threads pristine. That's if you reuse it. A new one is specified. The impact pulses worked so well it didn't even spin the the shaft a bit in reverse. Some have said turning the cam chain backwards is not recommended.

    After I filed the second used wheel I bought, I used a sharpie to mark it in the exact same place as the original. Of course, you don't need a second trigger wheel, you can just file the one you take off that is already marked. This trigger is held on my a relatively huge bolt, that is peened not to back off, and all it does is hold the weight of the trigger wheel itself...yes, at 13,000 rpm and if it comes off your screwed... but it is small, light and the inertia applied to the bolt that holds it is not all that much.

    Still, as I mentioned in my post, I tried to use a torque wrench to the spec'd 25lbs, and the cam chain moved on me as expected. I could have done something like this, or put it in gear, and/or jammed a 2x4 in the rear wheel spokes, and, you can take an engine cover off the other side and hold it with another wrench. Since careful impact wrench tightening back to the index mark worked for Martin, I figured it would work for me. I used a tad of blue lock tight for extra safe measure. Then I peened it way better IMO, than the factory did. Given how little work this nut does, that it is locktighted and peened, I personally don't think it matters if it is 22ftlbs, 25, or 28. It just needs to be reasonably close and peened. My 2 cents.

    All that being said, your method or any of the others mention will work. I did read that although the spec is only 25ftlbs, that getting it off the first time without an impact wrench can be difficult. It feels like twice that they say, requiring a long breaker bar. There are some things in life that an impact gun is the just this ticket for. This is one of them!
    Last edited by sti491; 03-05-2018 at 04:23 AM.
    '12 Raven/DS70/PC/Block offs/Cut air box short v-stacks/Timing adv/-1 frt sprocket/Metzeler M7RR's/90o stems/spools/sliders/GD opener/Acc-USB plugs/Volt meter/Jewel switch/Phone mount/LEDs: Amber Jewel/Headlight/Smoke tail & flush frt & pod sig-DLR/underseat red sig-brake/DMP fender eliminator/Lithium battery/Puig touring screen/Grip Puppies/Seat 1.5" higher/Rox 1" up & back risers/Gear Indicator/KTM tail pack/M1 alarm/CC/Tank Pads/SS BL/3 back surgeries/Old fart balls of steel/Happy to be here.

  7. #27

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    Just wanted to post a pic of this file set I picked up. I had some previously but they're long gone now and I never used them for much in the past. Anyway, will this set work for grinding the pick up coil? I ask because they seem pretty big - my hand for reference.

    Files by XRC, on Flickr

  8. #28
    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TN6R View Post
    Just wanted to post a pic of this file set I picked up. I had some previously but they're long gone now and I never used them for much in the past. Anyway, will this set work for grinding the pick up coil? I ask because they seem pretty big - my hand for reference.

    Files by XRC, on Flickr
    I did most of mine with a file about the size of the middle one. What you want though, is the edge not to have file teeth on it, you want it smooth. Some files are like that, some are not. Just realize, using a large file makes it easier to keep the nub square. But, it files fast so don't file too much. This is one of those jobs where making an error to take a little less off, if better than too much.
    '12 Raven/DS70/PC/Block offs/Cut air box short v-stacks/Timing adv/-1 frt sprocket/Metzeler M7RR's/90o stems/spools/sliders/GD opener/Acc-USB plugs/Volt meter/Jewel switch/Phone mount/LEDs: Amber Jewel/Headlight/Smoke tail & flush frt & pod sig-DLR/underseat red sig-brake/DMP fender eliminator/Lithium battery/Puig touring screen/Grip Puppies/Seat 1.5" higher/Rox 1" up & back risers/Gear Indicator/KTM tail pack/M1 alarm/CC/Tank Pads/SS BL/3 back surgeries/Old fart balls of steel/Happy to be here.

  9. #29
    Senior Member MrFrzZ's Avatar
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    Isn't the stock FZ6 HP number around 92?

    Has anyone seen excessive rear tire wear on their fz6r when pushing into the 80+ HP range? I would think that if someone is going to ramp it up to reach 90, they would need to look into a larger rear tire? Maybe not some much for traction in the here and now, but for tire longevity?

  10. #30
    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrFrzZ View Post
    Isn't the stock FZ6 HP number around 92?

    Has anyone seen excessive rear tire wear on their fz6r when pushing into the 80+ HP range? I would think that if someone is going to ramp it up to reach 90, they would need to look into a larger rear tire? Maybe not some much for traction in the here and now, but for tire longevity?
    Hmmmmmm, I don't know about that. I have read a lot about some peeps going up in rear tire size, but when I recently replaced my tires I went standard. A bigger tire is heavier and if it's a larger circumference you are losing tourque. Many articles about reduced turn in, however those that have done it say they like the handing better. I'm sure it looks good!

    What I have been wondering is with stock size tires, how many miles do fairly sport aggressive road riders get on a rear tire, and on the front. I am sure everyone is a little different with the brand/model tire size, but on average?
    '12 Raven/DS70/PC/Block offs/Cut air box short v-stacks/Timing adv/-1 frt sprocket/Metzeler M7RR's/90o stems/spools/sliders/GD opener/Acc-USB plugs/Volt meter/Jewel switch/Phone mount/LEDs: Amber Jewel/Headlight/Smoke tail & flush frt & pod sig-DLR/underseat red sig-brake/DMP fender eliminator/Lithium battery/Puig touring screen/Grip Puppies/Seat 1.5" higher/Rox 1" up & back risers/Gear Indicator/KTM tail pack/M1 alarm/CC/Tank Pads/SS BL/3 back surgeries/Old fart balls of steel/Happy to be here.

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