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Thread: Effects of changing sprockets

  1. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by tho9504 View Post
    Is +1/+0 the same as +0/+1? Instead of changing the front sprocket, if i changed the rear with +1 with that lower the RPMs at cruising speed? The only reason i am asking is because if i am on the highway or something, i hate reving the hell out of my bike. and the rear seems like it would be easier to change than the front (dont have any experience, just a guess).

    Ok, so i went to check some sprokets on e-bay and this is the information i got from their website:

    For QUICK Acceleration 16/47t gear ratio (Quick off the line, snappy roll on's, easier wheelies), The +1t rear sprocket change is very mild change, in the direction of quickness, with no noticeable side effects other than very slightly higher freeway cruising rpm's.

    For FREEWAY RATIO 16/43t FASTER TOP SPEED, and LOWER HIGHWAY CRUISING RPM's - The -1t rear sprocket is a mild change, the -3t will be very noticeable in lower top gear cruising rpm's and higher top speed, but slower off the line..

    Original Factory Supplied OEM 16/46t size sprockets are the calculated "Happy Medium" of off the line acceleration, roll on's, and reasonable high speed engine rpm's with the least amount of compromise on either top end or low end acceleration

    Teeth and Sizes Explained...
    ** A -1t front sprocket change is EXACTLY the same ratio change as +3t rear sprocket change.
    ** A -2t front sprocket change is EXACTLY the same ratio change as +6t rear sprocket change (Very Extreme change)
    ** A -1t front and +2t rear combination is EXACTLY the same as a +5t rear only change with stock front sprocket.


    ** A larger rear sprocket number of teeth size requires a longer chain, however +1 or -1 tooth on the front sprocket only requires NO chain length change.

  2. #82
    World Most Bad A$$ 6R Marthy's Avatar
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    +1 front or -3 back (F17T or R43T) is about the same ratio. Most of us went with 17T at the front... that's about -300RPM in the cruising range. Also make the speedo accurate.

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  3. #83
    Senior Member xorbe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tho9504 View Post
    Is +1/+0 the same as +0/+1? Instead of changing the front sprocket, if i changed the rear with +1 with that lower the RPMs at cruising speed? The only reason i am asking is because if i am on the highway or something, i hate reving the hell out of my bike. and the rear seems like it would be easier to change than the front (dont have any experience, just a guess).
    No, +1/0 would be similar to 0/-3. I am installing +1/0 soon (17T), then I have a 43T sprocket for additional 0/-3 later (giving +1/-3 total). Stock is 16/46. If you get extreme, you'll need to adjust chain link count, acquire speedohealer.

    Sorry, I did not notice new page 3 with replies already.
    Last edited by xorbe; 05-21-2015 at 11:42 AM.

  4. #84
    Junior Member SebUK's Avatar
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    I'm on 17/43 now and it is nice for what I need, as rpm are lower while on motorway. However I do feel lack of acceleration under 7kRPM. Also I found myself using 1st gear much often then before.

    This set up suits me, but if I would ride more in the city that would be unplesent ride..

  5. #85
    Senior Member xorbe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SebUK View Post
    I'm on 17/43 now and it is nice for what I need, as rpm are lower while on motorway. However I do feel lack of acceleration under 7kRPM. Also I found myself using 1st gear much often then before.

    This set up suits me, but if I would ride more in the city that would be unplesent ride..
    Hey glad to hear someone else has 17/43 already. The math makes it look like a decent highway setup for cruising 72 mph @ 6100 rpms.

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    I am gonna take the bike into the shop next week. Ive been reading the posts... will a stock chain fit the +1 up front change?

  7. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by leovito View Post
    I am gonna take the bike into the shop next week. Ive been reading the posts... will a stock chain fit the +1 up front change?
    Did it? Curious as well..

    If not, I think I'm gonna do the +1/0 for the speedo correction. What size chain should I get? Going to grab a red one while I'm at it.
    Last edited by dIGITAL dISCIPLE; 06-19-2015 at 03:42 AM.
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  8. #88

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    getting a headache reading this thread... dont know what way to go, background if it counts, i have a two bro's exhaust, pcv with a marthys map, and the air box mod... ride alot of country roads, and love to leave the stop signs like im a drag racer lol, but also do alot of long rides (300-400 miles in a day), my current chain and sprockets are shot, so i picked up a new chain, and deciding what gearing to go with, vortex doesnt have any 46's, so 47 is the next choice (49 is the other one in stock on revzilla), so if i go with a 47, whats the best choice for the front? i dont want to kill the top speed to badly (im riding alot with people on 600 supersports, so i dont wanna be left too badly in the dust)

  9. #89
    Senior Member sti491's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xorbe View Post
    Hey glad to hear someone else has 17/43 already. The math makes it look like a decent highway setup for cruising 72 mph @ 6100 rpms.
    I am about to put on a 15 tooth front sprocket for better pick-up. Today coincidently. Yesterday I checked my stock RPM/speed. I got 70 mph at 6,000 rpm. So is the only reason you are doing this a speedo accuracy? It's only off a couple MPH stock. Easy too correct in your head and not spend a dime... Just curious.

  10. #90

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    nah, speedo would be more acturate going 17/46 from what ive understood, ill be getting a speedo healer anyways, mine reads 61mph at 55mph on gps

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